cancel
Showing results for 
Show  only  | Search instead for 
Did you mean: 
Announcements
Welcome REI Co-op Members!
We're glad you're here. If you can't access the Co-op Members section of the community,
click here for instructions on how to join the section that's just for you.

What to use for a Quad Anchor for setting up top rope for sport Climbing?

What cordelette should I use for a top rope anchor? size/strength/Length?

0 Likes
6 Replies

Mammut's 5 mm accessory cord has a breaking strength of 5.5kn (about 1200lb), 6mm is 7.5kn (about 1700lb) and 7mm 13kn (about 2900lb). Note that the 7mm cord is over 40% stronger than the 6mm, and almost 60% stronger than 5mm.

Buy 21 feet (640cm) or so of 6mm, 7mm or 8mm cord. Thicker is generally more durable for top roping but thinner is lighter and smaller for multi-pitch climbing. When in doubt use thicker cord, and make it into into a loop, connecting both ends, using a Triple Fisherman’s Bend Knot.

Marc_OV_AZ_1-1631721586541.jpeg

 

 

Marc_OV_AZ  speak with straight tongue.  Don't skimp when it comes to such a critical device.  Thicker cord will endure abrasion better than thinner cord.  Personally, I would go with an even longer length say 30 feet.....

Superusers do not speak on behalf of REI and may have received
one or more gifts or other benefits from the co-op.
0 Likes

So I bought a 7mm 30ft of bluewater accessory cord. So that should work well?

0 Likes

If this is the product you purchased:

https://www.rei.com/product/118270/bluewater-7mm-x-30-ft-accessory-cord

It’s rating is less than the Mammut 7mm, however should be satisfactory at 10 kilonewtons strength. 

 

0 Likes

Now that I answered your specific question about "cordelette" selection, of which is "satisfactory" for your own personal sport climbing specific use with an anchor system, I will rephrase the question and give you a different answer.

What is the best rope selection Marc would use to set up a Multi Point Equal Tension Anchor System?

Personal Sport Climbing:

9.5mm to 9.9mm Kernmantle Dynamic Climbing Rope, in its own Rope Throw Bag.

Rescue:

11.4mm Kernmantle Dynamic Climbing Rope, in its own Rope Throw Bag.

When it comes to equipment selection, I was trained to "maximize safety" and "excellence in quality".

The choice is of course an individual decision, it just your life...or are other lives depending on your equipment selection and knowledge?

 

0 Likes

Yes of course maximizing safety is extremely important. I am currently just getting into the sport and want to have my own gear. I hate always having to borrow/use someone else's gear. So yes eventfully my life and the life of other climbers will depend on my equipment. That is what prompted the initial question.