{"id":42687,"date":"2019-01-14T10:00:27","date_gmt":"2019-01-14T18:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=42687"},"modified":"2020-05-22T12:51:43","modified_gmt":"2020-05-22T19:51:43","slug":"how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season","title":{"rendered":"How You Can Try Ice Climbing This Season"},"content":{"rendered":"<span class=\"cb-itemprop\" itemprop=\"reviewBody\"><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Here\u2019s the thing about ice climbing: It looks impossible. Climbers scale frozen waterfalls with tiny slivers of metal strapped to their hands and feet, generally defying gravity while looking like the badass villain in an action movie. But here\u2019s the well-kept secret: With some simple instruction, it\u2019s actually quite possible for us mortals to climb features like frozen waterfalls, glaciers, icefalls and rock slabs covered in ice. It\u2019s fun, it can be reasonably safe, and it\u2019ll take you to some of the most interesting winter environments you\u2019ve ever seen.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Broadly speaking, there are two kinds of ice to climb: alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is almost always found in the mountains, usually requires a long approach to access, and is most frequently climbed as part of a summit attempt\u2014think of the more technical routes on Denali, for example, or Mount Rainier. Water ice, on the other hand, is usually formed by running water on a cliff or other outcropping beneath water flows. Water ice can form naturally in places where the temperature varies between freezing and just above freezing, or it can be made and groomed by humans in<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/ourayicepark.com\/\"> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ice parks like the one in Ouray, Colorado<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Around the world, ice-climbing routes range from beginner to expert, with technical grades that vary as the ice conditions change throughout the winter. For most beginners, water ice is the place to start.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Just as in rock climbing, ice can be climbed on top rope or on lead. Climbers use ice tools and technical crampons to climb, and ice screws, ropes, and other protection are used to protect against falls.<\/span><\/p>\n<h4><b>How To Start: Get Lessons or Check Out A Festival<\/b><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cIn this sport, it\u2019s really worth investing in the learning process,\u201d says<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/alpinelines\/\"> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mark Allen<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a mountain guide and owner of Washington-based<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mountainbureau\/\"> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mountain Bureau<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u201cThe first several times you go ice climbing should be on top rope with an experienced friend or guide, not just a fellow novice ice climber. Make sure you find somebody who can give you real instruction on the foundational technique. If you learn the basics well, you\u2019ll be more safe, have more fun, and be a lot less uncomfortable. The proper instruction could easily determine whether you love or hate ice climbing.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Many guide services in North America offer introductory ice-climbing courses, and some private guides also offer one-on-one instruction. But Allen, who is certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, also suggests another option\u2014check out an ice-climbing festival. Throughout the winter, several festivals around the country offer the chance to attend clinics taught by professional athletes and guides, test a variety of different gear, see slideshows and trip reports from alpine adventures around the world and meet like-minded ice enthusiasts. Here are a few to check out this year:<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineer.com\/mountainfest\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Jan. 18-21, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/ourayicepark.com\/ouray-ice-festival\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ouray Ice Fest<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Jan. 24-27, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/www.smuggsicebash.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Smuggs Ice Bash<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Jan. 25-27, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mwv-icefest.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Feb. 1-3, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/www.michiganicefest.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Michigan Ice Fest<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Feb. 13-17, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/valdezadventurealliance.com\/ice-planning\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Valdez Ice Festival<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, Feb. 15-18, 2019.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">One word of warning: there are sometimes \u201cice festivals\u201d or \u201cgatherings\u201d in places where there isn\u2019t actually outdoor ice available to climb. These events can be great fun\u2014you can see films, attend indoor clinics, and generally share the stoke\u2014but if you\u2019re looking to actually go climbing outdoors, it\u2019s worth reading the fine print.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_42695\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-42695\" class=\"wp-image-42695 size-article_body\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2019\/01\/IMG_7591-Kat-Carney.jpg?resize=1024%2C682\" alt=\"An ice climber reaches out, carefully placing his ice axe to pull himself up a frozen waterfall.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-42695\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo Credit: Kat Carney<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><b>Gear and Clothing Tips<\/b><\/h4>\n<p>On your body, you\u2019ll want to dress in layers. Ice climbing involves a lot of stopping and starting as you climb and belay, so you\u2019ll alternate between intense exertion and standing around trying to stay warm. Think of wool or synthetic (not cotton) <a href=\"\/c\/base-layers\">base layers<\/a>, a handful of insulating layers (think <a href=\"\/c\/fleece-jackets\">light or midweight fleece<\/a>, a <a href=\"\/c\/insulated-jackets\">thin down or synthetic jacket<\/a>, and maybe a <a href=\"\/c\/insulated-vests\">vest<\/a>), and a <a href=\"\/c\/jackets\/f\/fet-gore-tex\">waterproof GORE-TEX\u00ae jacket<\/a> and <a href=\"\/c\/rain-pants\">waterproof pants<\/a>. You\u2019ll also want a big, warm <a href=\"\/s\/down-parka\">down parka<\/a> to wear when you\u2019re belaying or waiting to climb\u2014and don\u2019t forget a <a href=\"\/c\/winter-hats\">warm hat<\/a>, <a href=\"\/c\/socks\">socks<\/a> and <a href=\"\/c\/gloves\">gloves<\/a>. These soft goods are all versatile and size-specific, so most climbers buy their own warm and waterproof layers.<\/p>\n<p>The role of gloves is often underestimated, and many climbers say that choosing the right glove system is one of the most important decisions you\u2019ll make when you\u2019re planning your day. You\u2019ll want big <a href=\"\/c\/downhill-ski-gloves\">ski-style gloves<\/a> to stay warm when you\u2019re standing around or belaying, but you\u2019ll always want a light, high-dexterity work glove for when you\u2019re actually climbing. (With good dexterity, you\u2019ll have an easier time gripping the handles of your ice tools. Gloves that are too bulky will tire out your hands more quickly.) It\u2019s worth throwing a pair of disposable <a href=\"\/s\/hand-warmers\">hand warmers<\/a> in your pockets, too.<\/p>\n<p>For technical gear, you\u2019ll need <a href=\"\/c\/mountaineering-boots\">boots<\/a>, <a href=\"\/c\/ice-climbing-crampons\">climbing-specific (not general mountaineering) crampons<\/a> and <a href=\"\/c\/ice-tools\">ice tools<\/a>. Before you invest in your own kit, many guides recommend that you rent or borrow from a friend who\u2019s comparably-sized. While that\u2019s good advice for any expensive hobby, it\u2019s especially true for ice climbing, which requires very nuanced equipment. Rent it, see what you like and don\u2019t like, then gradually start investing.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_42694\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-42694\" class=\"wp-image-42694 size-article_body\" style=\"font-weight: bold; background-color: transparent; color: #464646; font-style: italic; text-align: center;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2019\/01\/IMG_7468-Kat-Carney.jpg?resize=1024%2C682\" alt=\"An ice climber makes his way up a frozen waterfall, reaching his ice axe for the next placement.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-42694\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo Credit: Kat Carney<\/p><\/div>\n<h4><b>When You\u2019re Actually Climbing<\/b><\/h4>\n<p><b>Basic climbing technique<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. As you\u2019re standing on your crampons, try to get your hips close into the ice, directly over your feet. Move your feet up one at a time, aiming for small vertical distances\u2014it\u2019s much easier and more stable to take smaller steps.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Find good ice<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. As you\u2019re climbing up the ice, you\u2019ll be looking around for the best places to place your ice tools and crampons. Generally speaking, ice bulges are weak and ice concavities are strong. If you try to kick, swing, or place a screw into a bulge, often you&#8217;ll fracture the ice. When there&#8217;s a dusting of snow on the ice, the patches of ice with snow on them are concavities. Aim for those when swinging and kicking.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>When you\u2019re standing on your crampons, keep your heels low.<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> It\u2019s very easy to let your heels creep up, which feels like you\u2019re standing on your tiptoes\u2014and burns out your calves almost immediately. Dropping your heel prolongs endurance and engages all of the front points on your crampons, both the primary and secondary.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Practice your swinging technique<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Swing so that your shoulder, elbow, wrist, and tool head are all in one vertical line. If you swing correctly, you\u2019ll hear a satisfying &#8220;twang.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<span class=\"cb-button cb-white cb-normal cb-center\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/learn\/expert-advice\/ice-climbing-waterfalls-alpine-walls.html\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"follow\">Learn More: Ice Climbing Techniques<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" role=\"presentation\"><path d=\"M16 12a.997.997 0 0 0-.288-.702l-5.005-5.005a1 1 0 0 0-1.414 1.414L13.585 12 9.29 16.295a1 1 0 0 0 1.417 1.412l4.98-4.98A.997.997 0 0 0 16 12z\"><\/path><\/svg><\/a><\/span>\n<h4><b>Training For Ice Climbing<\/b><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">According to Matt Holland, co-owner of the<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nwfitnessproject.com\"> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Northwest Fitness Project<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, \u201cice climbing involves a lot of grip strength, core stability, and overall endurance.\u201d When he trains climbers, these are some of the exercises that he suggests athletes do at home to prepare for the ice season.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Dead hangs<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Hook your ice-climbing tools high on a secure surface, like a pull-up bar. Hold both tools and hang with shoulders engaged\u2014think of squeezing your shoulder blades together. Hang for 10 seconds and then rest 10 seconds; do 10 rounds for one set. Do three sets total with a few minutes of rest between each. Add five to 10 seconds to each hang every week.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Stability ball body saws<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Get in plank position with elbows on the ball directly below shoulders. Extend your elbows out as far in front of you as possible while keeping your hips level, then pull back. Aim for 10 reps.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Overhead weighted lunges<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Stand with feet shoulder-width apart and slightly bent, holding a weighted plate above your head. Step back into a lunge, making sure your lunging knee doesn\u2019t extend beyond your toes, your arms don\u2019t bend, and your chest is open and level. Complete 10 reps on each leg. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Tool pull-ups<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. First, find your max by doing as many pull-ups as you can on tools without stopping. For week one, do 80 percent of your max for four rounds, resting one to two minutes between each round. Each week, add one more pull-up to the set.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For more information, check out<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/product\/711148\/ice-and-mixed-climbing-modern-techniques\"> <i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ice &amp; Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> by Will Gadd.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Here\u2019s the thing about ice climbing: It looks impossible. Climbers scale frozen waterfalls with tiny slivers of metal strapped to their hands and feet, generally defying gravity while looking like the badass villain in an action movie. But here\u2019s the well-kept secret: With some simple instruction, it\u2019s actually quite possible for us mortals to climb [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":26,"featured_media":42693,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[734,451,612,758,780,1733,789,66],"internal-tag":[],"class_list":["post-42687","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climb","tag-climbing","tag-climbing-tips","tag-gear-tips","tag-how-to","tag-ice-climbing","tag-ice-festival","tag-ouray-ice-festival","tag-tips"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/climb\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season","smart_links":{"inbound":0,"outbound":0},"traffic_boost_suggestions_count":0,"meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"How You Can Try Ice Climbing This Season","url":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2019\/01\/IMG_6790-Kat-Carney.jpg?resize=150%2C150","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2019\/01\/IMG_6790-Kat-Carney.jpg?fit=2000%2C1333"},"articleSection":"Climb","author":[{"@type":"Person","name":"Michelle Flandreau"}],"creator":["Michelle Flandreau"],"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Uncommon Path \u2013 An REI Co-op Publication","logo":""},"keywords":["climbing","climbing tips","gear tips","how to","ice climbing","ice festival","ouray ice festival","tips"],"dateCreated":"2019-01-14T18:00:27Z","datePublished":"2019-01-14T18:00:27Z","dateModified":"2020-05-22T19:51:43Z"},"rendered":"<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"wp-parsely-metadata\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@type\":\"NewsArticle\",\"headline\":\"How You Can Try Ice Climbing This Season\",\"url\":\"http:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/climb\\\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"http:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/climb\\\/how-you-can-try-ice-climbing-this-season\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/4\\\/2019\\\/01\\\/IMG_6790-Kat-Carney.jpg?resize=150%2C150\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/4\\\/2019\\\/01\\\/IMG_6790-Kat-Carney.jpg?fit=2000%2C1333\"},\"articleSection\":\"Climb\",\"author\":[{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"name\":\"Michelle Flandreau\"}],\"creator\":[\"Michelle Flandreau\"],\"publisher\":{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"name\":\"Uncommon Path \\u2013 An REI Co-op Publication\",\"logo\":\"\"},\"keywords\":[\"climbing\",\"climbing tips\",\"gear tips\",\"how to\",\"ice climbing\",\"ice festival\",\"ouray ice festival\",\"tips\"],\"dateCreated\":\"2019-01-14T18:00:27Z\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-01-14T18:00:27Z\",\"dateModified\":\"2020-05-22T19:51:43Z\"}<\/script>","tracker_url":"https:\/\/cdn.parsely.com\/keys\/rei.com\/p.js"},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2019\/01\/IMG_6790-Kat-Carney.jpg?fit=2000%2C1333","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42687","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/26"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=42687"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42687\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42956,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42687\/revisions\/42956"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/42693"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=42687"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=42687"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=42687"},{"taxonomy":"internal-tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/internal-tag?post=42687"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}