{"id":22148,"date":"2017-11-01T15:14:06","date_gmt":"2017-11-01T22:14:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=22148"},"modified":"2025-11-20T20:00:05","modified_gmt":"2025-11-21T04:00:05","slug":"remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag","title":{"rendered":"Remembering Fred Beckey, America&#8217;s Preeminent Dirtbag"},"content":{"rendered":"<span class=\"cb-itemprop\" itemprop=\"reviewBody\"><p><strong>The most prolific North American climber of all time, passed away at 94<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Fred Beckey, born Wolfgang Gottfried Beckey, was one of the most influential\u2014perhaps <em>the<\/em> most influential climber\u2014in American history. He died on October 30 in Seattle\u00a0at the age of 94.<\/p>\n<p>Born in D\u00fcsseldorf, Germany, on January 14, 1923, &#8220;Fred started climbing in the Boy Scouts,&#8221; according to a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/blog\/remembering-mountaineer-fred-beckey\">report by The Mountaineers<\/a>, &#8220;and continued as a teenager with The Mountaineers, graduating from our\u00a0Basic climbing course.&#8221; In 1939, as a 15-year-old, he joined\u00a0REI co-founder Lloyd Anderson\u00a0on\u00a0the first ascent of Mount Despair.<\/p>\n<p>At 19, Fred climbed the highest peak in British Columbia, Mount Waddington (13,185\u2019), in the rugged Coast Mountains, completing the peak\u2019s second ascent with his brother Helmy. He went on to climb many of the tallest peaks in North America, established long alpine routes in Canada and the Pacific Northwest, and did the first ascents of innumerable desert towers on the Colorado Plateau, a 240,000-square-mile area covering the Four Corners area of Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube-nocookie.com\/embed\/05RiYBruHpU\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>According to accomplished American desert tower climber and founder of the climbing gear museum <a href=\"http:\/\/verticalarchaeology.com\/\">Vertical Archeology<\/a> Ashby Robertson, &#8220;I&#8217;m not sure if anyone knows the exact number, probably not even him. Thousands of quality climbs though for sure.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Imagine a Moleskine notebook with all his notes in there,&#8221; professional climber and head of The North Face climbing team Conrad Anker told the Co-op Journal. Conrad was referring to an alleged hidden book of Fred&#8217;s first ascents (ranking well into the thousands) and dream-routes journal. \u201cIt\u2019s rumored to be out there, and finding it would be like finding an undiscovered Beatles album.\u201d<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>He was always rushing to the next project.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Many climbers, from the everyday to the elite, crossed paths with Fred over his long life, and they all have wild stories about the icon. \u201cThe truth about Fred, though, probably lies somewhere in the middle of all the hero worship and the often grumbling man,&#8221; Robertson said. &#8220;You really didn\u2019t come up high on Fred\u2019s radar, unless you were planning a trip with him or paying for gas.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Some of Fred\u2019s regular climbing partners in the American Southwest during the 1960s and 1970s included Harvey T. Carter, Layton Kor and Eric Bj\u00f8rnstad (all three have since died), a veritable who&#8217;s who of American rock climbing. \u201cHe was always rushing to the next project,\u201d Robertson said.<\/p>\n<p>Steve \u201cCrusher\u201d Bartlett, author of the coffee-table book Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock wrote on Facebook: \u201cI&#8217;m lucky to have roped up with Beckey, Kor and Carter, proud to have had the opportunity to capture something of these larger-than-life characters in my book. They learned their art the hard way and relied on their own skills and judgment.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_22150\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-22150\" class=\"size-article_body wp-image-22150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/11\/EricBj_Bride_FA1971_2.jpg?resize=1024%2C672\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"672\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-22150\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fred (left) with frequent climbing partner Eric Bj\u00f8rnstad in 1971 after a first ascent of Honeymoon on The Bride, near Moab | Photo: Eric Bj\u00f8rnstad<\/p><\/div>\n<p>It\u2019s not just the quantity of Fred\u2019s climbs but it\u2019s their quality. Fred had an eye for a good line and when he was in his prime, all of the good lines were there for the picking. Many of his first ascents have since become classics. He kept loose-leaf binders and journals filled with<b> <\/b>notes on future climbing objectives, potential partners, available couches for sleeping, and details to include in his trip reports. This mass of information is likely the source of the \u201clittle black book\u201d rumors.<\/p>\n<p>Fred led a dirtbag lifestyle\u2014eschewing societal norms in the relentless pursuit of rock\u2014which he kept until he died. However, that was not the case when he was awarded the President\u2019s Gold Medal from the American Alpine Club (AAC) during a black-tie event in New York City in 2015. There he was outfitted him in a crisp suit.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe President&#8217;s Gold Medal is given very rarely\u2014this is the fourth time it has been given in the Club&#8217;s 113-year history\u2014for extraordinary accomplishments in the climbing world,\u201d AAC President Mark Kroese told <a href=\"https:\/\/www.climbing.com\/news\/fred-beckey-to-be-awarded-rare-aac-gold-medal\/\">Climbing Magazine<\/a>\u00a0at the time. Aside from odd jobs in the late &#8217;50s and the numerous books he authored, he never had a typical job. He never married or had kids. He was a rock climber. Everything else was secondary.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_22151\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-22151\" class=\"size-article_body wp-image-22151\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/11\/EricBj_FredBeckey_4.jpg?resize=1024%2C794\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"794\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-22151\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1970s snapshot from Fred&#8217;s eternal road trip | Photo: Eric\u00a0Bj\u00f8rnstad<\/p><\/div>\n<p>He lived and breathed the vertical and was an unstoppable force in the mountains. \u201cHe was alpine climbing before anyone was doing it. Same with his desert climbs,\u201d Conrad said. His diverse first ascent list varies from multi-pitch rock routes on Yosemite\u2019s obscure <a href=\"http:\/\/wawona.yosemitebigwall.com\/History.html\">Wawona Dome<\/a> to British Columbia\u2019s immense South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.<\/p>\n<p>His list of notable ascents continues for 13 pages on the American Alpine Journal\u2019s archives. Notable areas include Wyoming\u2019s Big Horn Mountains, Washington\u2019s Picket Range, the Cascade Mountains in British Columbia, and Canyonlands in Utah (to name very few). Fred was not, however, a big expedition climber, especially after he was omitted from the 1963 American Everest Expedition\u2014even though he had an attempt on\u00a0 neighboring <a href=\"http:\/\/publications.americanalpineclub.org\/articles\/12195600700\/print\">Lhotse (27,940\u2019) nearly 10 years earlier<\/a>\u2014that placed the first American climbers on the roof of the world. After that snubbing, according to Anker, possibly due conflicts during the Lhotse climb, he decided to travel and climb in smaller teams.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>He devoted all his life, 365 days a year for three-quarters of a century to climbing.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Stewart Green, another climbing writer and historian in Colorado, remembered his friend Fred. \u201cHe was so motivated, much more than just about anybody else. Fred climbed all over the place and loved it. That was his whole life. It\u2019s inspiring to think of what we can do if we put our minds to it like Fred. That may be his legacy more than his 5,000 first ascents.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Legendary alpinist <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/still-cranking-years\">Jim Donini<\/a> who appears in the climbing movie <a href=\"http:\/\/dirtbagmovie.com\/\">Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey<\/a> told the Co-op Journal, \u201cIn a climbing sense, he was definitely the American original. I can\u2019t think of anyone that epitomizes the modern or postmodern American climbing scene as he has.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere is no one who has poked his nose and explored more mountains in North America than him. No one has left a climbing trail like that. He crossed more valleys, more ridges, than anyone. Nobody is close. He devoted all his life, 365 days a year for three-quarters of a century to climbing.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe opened up the division for American climbers, as he was the first one to go into many areas and report on them. I don\u2019t think his feats will ever be replicated. He was eccentric and relentless. He was an original and we\u2019ll never see his like again.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cFarewell, warrior.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The most prolific North American climber of all time, passed away at 94 Fred Beckey, born Wolfgang Gottfried Beckey, was one of the most influential\u2014perhaps the most influential climber\u2014in American history. He died on October 30 in Seattle\u00a0at the age of 94. Born in D\u00fcsseldorf, Germany, on January 14, 1923, &#8220;Fred started climbing in the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":26,"featured_media":22154,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[734,727,697,914],"internal-tag":[1679],"class_list":["post-22148","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climb","tag-climbing","tag-latest-posts","tag-outdoor-news","tag-remembrance","internal-tag-pre-redirect-climbing"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/climb\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag","smart_links":{"inbound":0,"outbound":0},"traffic_boost_suggestions_count":0,"meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Remembering Fred Beckey, America&#8217;s Preeminent Dirtbag","url":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/11\/IMG_0595.jpg?resize=150%2C150","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/11\/IMG_0595.jpg?fit=1500%2C893"},"articleSection":"Climb","author":[{"@type":"Person","name":"Michelle Flandreau"}],"creator":["Michelle Flandreau"],"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Uncommon Path \u2013 An REI Co-op Publication","logo":""},"keywords":["climbing","latest posts","outdoor news","remembrance"],"dateCreated":"2017-11-01T22:14:06Z","datePublished":"2017-11-01T22:14:06Z","dateModified":"2025-11-21T04:00:05Z"},"rendered":"<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"wp-parsely-metadata\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@type\":\"NewsArticle\",\"headline\":\"Remembering Fred Beckey, America&#8217;s Preeminent Dirtbag\",\"url\":\"http:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/climb\\\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"http:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/climb\\\/remembering-fred-beckey-americas-preeminent-dirtbag\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/4\\\/2017\\\/11\\\/IMG_0595.jpg?resize=150%2C150\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.rei.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/4\\\/2017\\\/11\\\/IMG_0595.jpg?fit=1500%2C893\"},\"articleSection\":\"Climb\",\"author\":[{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"name\":\"Michelle Flandreau\"}],\"creator\":[\"Michelle Flandreau\"],\"publisher\":{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"name\":\"Uncommon Path \\u2013 An REI Co-op Publication\",\"logo\":\"\"},\"keywords\":[\"climbing\",\"latest posts\",\"outdoor news\",\"remembrance\"],\"dateCreated\":\"2017-11-01T22:14:06Z\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-11-01T22:14:06Z\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-11-21T04:00:05Z\"}<\/script>","tracker_url":"https:\/\/cdn.parsely.com\/keys\/rei.com\/p.js"},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2017\/11\/IMG_0595.jpg?fit=1500%2C893","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22148","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/26"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=22148"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22148\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":201149,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22148\/revisions\/201149"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/22154"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=22148"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=22148"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=22148"},{"taxonomy":"internal-tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/internal-tag?post=22148"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}