{"id":21992,"date":"2017-10-26T15:36:42","date_gmt":"2017-10-26T22:36:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=21992"},"modified":"2018-12-26T15:02:33","modified_gmt":"2018-12-26T23:02:33","slug":"conrad-ankers-guide-to-footcare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/conrad-ankers-guide-to-footcare","title":{"rendered":"Conrad Anker\u2019s Guide to Footcare"},"content":{"rendered":"<span class=\"cb-itemprop\" itemprop=\"reviewBody\"><p>If Conrad Anker could be any animal, he\u2019d be a mountain goat. \u201cI\u2019ve seen them climb 5.8 for sure,\u201d he tells me over the phone, relaxing after an early fall hike in mountains near his Bozeman, Montana home. \u201cTheir hooves are just incredible.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As it turns out, Anker knows a surprising amount about hooves; why they\u2019re suited for climbing, what they\u2019re made of, and so on. But I didn\u2019t call to talk about hooves, at least not exactly\u2014I called to talk about feet. <em>His<\/em> feet.<\/p>\n<p>One of the most prolific outdoorsmen of our time, Anker has guided climbing teams to the summit of Everest (on multiple occasions) and tracked herds of rare antelope across the barren plateaus of Tibet. He\u2019s put up first ascents from Antarctica to Alaska, Yosemite to Zion. And if you ask him how he\u2019s managed such success over the course of his career in the mountains, instead of looking up to count his lucky stars, he\u2019ll probably glance down toward his feet.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-version=\"7\">\n<div style=\"padding: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 62.4537037037037% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;\"><\/div>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BN-srwJAgEC\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Conrad Anker (@conrad_anker)<\/a> on <time style=\"font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;\" datetime=\"2016-12-14T01:47:44+00:00\">Dec 13, 2016 at 5:47pm PST<\/time><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async defer src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>\u201cOur feet take our bodies to these beautiful places that refresh our souls,\u201d he says. \u201cSo if we\u2019re not taking good care of them, well, we should check our priorities.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That\u2019s the thing about Anker: He\u2019s damn insightful. To him, taking thoughtful care of his feet is about much more than simply feeling comfortable on the wall or trail\u2014it\u2019s about eliminating one possible roadblock to time spent in wild places. And while it\u2019d be easy to write off aches, dislodged toenails and other foot-related ailments as character building side effects that come with the territory, Anker isn\u2019t willing to settle.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI haven\u2019t had a blister in a decade,\u201d he tells me confidently, before diving into the finer points of his strict foot care regimen. Here are Anker\u2019s top foot care tips for climbers, hikers and anyone else who values big days in the backcountry.<\/p>\n<h4>Keep \u2018em Clean<\/h4>\n<p>Whether taking a short break during a trail run, between pitches on a big wall climb or preparing to bivvy for the night, Anker takes every opportunity to ensure his feet stay clean. \u201cWhen I\u2019m hiking and it\u2019s time for lunch, it takes me like 15 seconds before my socks and shoes are off and my feet are airing out,\u201d he explains. In addition to allowing his skin to breathe, doing this gives him the opportunity to shake any sand, pebbles or debris from his shoes and socks. It also promotes blood flow, something Anker says is key to comfort. \u201cWhen you put your shoes back on, your feet are refreshed and your socks fit well.\u201d<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-version=\"7\">\n<div style=\"padding: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 50% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;\"><\/div>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/OiJOaxMFqK\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Conrad Anker (@conrad_anker)<\/a> on <time style=\"font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;\" datetime=\"2012-08-20T02:41:20+00:00\">Aug 19, 2012 at 7:41pm PDT<\/time><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async defer src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>Before bed on multi-day outings, Anker also washes and sanitizes his feet. For the wash cycle, he uses a dash of biodegradable soap and whatever water source is available. \u201cIf I\u2019m at altitude, I&#8217;m washing with snow and things like that,\u201d he explains. After allowing his skin to dry completely, he enlists the help of some hand sanitizer to make sure bacteria aren\u2019t getting too homely between his digits. \u201cAll you need is a pea-size drop of it, so you can get by with one of those little travel bottles on a 10-day trip, easy,\u201d he explains.<\/p>\n<h4>Keep \u2018em Moisturized<\/h4>\n<p>Especially in harsh, cold weather environments, Anker is a firm believer that moisturized feet are warm feet, and that warm feet are happy feet. \u201cThe main thing about keeping your skin hydrated is that it stays supple,\u201d he explains, \u201cand it\u2019s my belief is that it stays warmer that way.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Because high school science class taught you to have a healthy skepticism for theories based solely on beliefs, you\u2019ll be happy to know that I pressed Anker for some proof. His response? \u201cI\u2019ve never had frostbite. Not on the Meru expedition nor the three times to Everest or to Antarctica.\u201d A pretty convincing set of data, given the prevalence of frostbite\u2014and even missing toes\u2014among seasoned mountaineers.<\/p>\n<p>To keep his feet (and hands) moisturized, Anker never leaves home without a small tin of good salve. While he also uses normal lotion at home, salve is the best bang for the buck in the field, he says, because it\u2019s light, compact and it stays on your feet. \u201cAt home, I&#8217;ll put a lot of lotion on my feet and then put on a pair of socks that are kind of pitted out and just let them soak,\u201d he says. In the mountains, he\u2019ll apply a healthy coating of salve after cleaning his feet and before pulling that day&#8217;s socks back on for the night.<\/p>\n<h4>Keep &#8217;em Strong and Limber<\/h4>\n<p>Alpine climbing is tough on the body, and with wild temperature swings and just plain keeping yourself upright for long hours, perhaps no body part takes more of a beating than your feet. Apart from the aforementioned rigors, it\u2019s safe to say most folks probably don&#8217;t work on foot strength and flexibility as much as they should. Anker, of course, treats his feet like any other muscle group when it comes to training.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen I\u2019m stuck behind that guy on the airport escalator who\u2019s blocking the whole thing, I do toe stands,\u201d he explains. \u201cI also take time to wiggle my toes and circle my ankles in both directions whenever I\u2019m sitting for long periods.\u201d At the climbing gym, Anker sets aside time to boulder in slippers (yes, slippers) because their lack of support activates key muscles, strengthening his toes and feet in the process. Strong feet can take more of the beating you throw at them without putting up a fuss, says Anker, so exercises and stretches like these make the difference at the end of long days.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSelf-massaging is also key\u2014I massage both my hands and my feet on a regular basis,\u201d says Anker, who often utilizes a tennis\u00a0or lacrosse ball at home to roll out achy foot muscles, but he\u2019s got another trick for fresh and revitalized feet up his sleeve: pedicures. \u201cIt\u2019s not very lumberjack-y or macho but I\u2019m like, hey, having healthy hands and feet at my age is something I\u2019m proud of. I put a lot of effort into it because my hands and feet are the connection that bring me the joy of climbing which is ultimately a cerebral thing.\u201d<\/p>\n<h4>Keep &#8217;em Comfy<\/h4>\n<p>While light and fast is a school of thought Anker certainly ascribes to, he\u2019s willing to compromise when it comes to his feet. On a normal expedition, he\u2019ll rotate through three to six pairs of socks in an effort to stay warm and comfortable. \u201cA fluffy and soft sock not only acts as a cushion, it\u2019s your insulation. It creates dead air space,\u201d he explains. As for material, wool is the only way to go for Anker. \u201cYou can wear them two or three days whereas a synthetic or a cotton sock feels pitted-out a bit quicker.\u201d<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-version=\"7\">\n<div style=\"padding: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 33.33333333333333% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;\"><\/div>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BMmKczyBFtA\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Smartwool (@smartwool)<\/a> on <time style=\"font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;\" datetime=\"2016-11-09T16:35:26+00:00\">Nov 9, 2016 at 8:35am PST<\/time><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async defer src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>\u201cConrad is fanatical about his feet,\u201d says Smartwool development director John Ramsey, who worked with Anker through more than 20 prototypes to create his signature <a href=\"\/product\/135163\/smartwool-phd-pro-mountaineer-socks-mens\">PhD Mountaineer sock<\/a>. \u201cIt\u2019s not very often you meet someone who likes socks<strong>\u00a0<\/strong>as much I do.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>When one pair of socks feels beat-down, Anker pulls out a fresh pair. But a special set\u2014which Anker refers to as &#8220;summit socks&#8221;\u2014stays untouched until the expedition&#8217;s most important day. &#8220;Socks are such a humble piece of gear,&#8221; he says, &#8220;But as you and I both know, there&#8217;s nothing quite like a never-worn pair. Especially after a long push toward the summit, that treat can be exactly what you need.&#8221;<\/p>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If Conrad Anker could be any animal, he\u2019d be a mountain goat. \u201cI\u2019ve seen them climb 5.8 for sure,\u201d he tells me over the phone, relaxing after an early fall hike in mountains near his Bozeman, Montana home. \u201cTheir hooves are just incredible.\u201d As it turns out, Anker knows a surprising amount about hooves; why [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":26,"featured_media":21997,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,387,11],"tags":[734,555,758,727,554],"internal-tag":[1679],"class_list":["post-21992","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climb","category-hike","category-snowsports","tag-climbing","tag-conrad-anker","tag-how-to","tag-latest-posts","tag-smartwool","internal-tag-pre-redirect-climbing"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/climb\/conrad-ankers-guide-to-footcare","smart_links":{"inbound":0,"outbound":0},"traffic_boost_suggestions_count":0,"meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Conrad Anker\u2019s Guide to 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