{"id":20759,"date":"2017-10-04T09:54:03","date_gmt":"2017-10-04T16:54:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=20759"},"modified":"2023-06-09T11:01:26","modified_gmt":"2023-06-09T18:01:26","slug":"climbing-road-trip-autumns-best-crags","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/climb\/climbing-road-trip-autumns-best-crags","title":{"rendered":"Climbing Road Trip: Autumn’s Best Crags"},"content":{"rendered":"

Fall is often the high point on the climber’s calendar. Conditions are cool, dry and fairly reliable\u2014plus you’re in bone-crusher mode having climbed all summer (…right?). This favorable superfecta presents good friction in what are commonly known as “sending temps,” and like migrating birds, climbers take off to chase glory.<\/p>\n

Using a combination of Mountain Project climbing season charts, which show the number of ticks or successful climbs logged by its users at a given crag each month, website and app traffic, and some local expert advice, we’ve highlighted the country’s best crags for fall climbing.<\/p>\n

Use this list, divided by region, to guide your migration, whether you have just one stop or want to climb until the snow falls.<\/p>\n

Northeast<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Rumney<\/a>, New Hampshire<\/h4>\n

World-class sport climbing just two hours from Boston<\/em><\/p>\n

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Rumney | Photo submitted by MP user Mike Baron<\/p><\/div>\n

This sport climber\u2019s paradise hosts the best schist you\u2019ll find anywhere. Whether you\u2019re just starting to climb or a seasoned professional, there are ample lines that will fit your fancy. Make sure to check out Millennium Falcon<\/a> on the Main Cliff. Plus you\u2019ll get to witness the leaves put on a show as the trees prepare for winter.<\/p>\n

The Shawangunks<\/strong><\/a>, New York<\/strong><\/h4>\n

 <\/em><\/strong>Roof-pulling high above the fall colors<\/em><\/p>\n

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High Exposure (5.6) | Photo submitted by MP user Christian Lanley<\/p><\/div>\n

Famed for its burly roofs, horizontal cracks, and, well, interesting pro, the Gunks have been climbed since the 1930s. Bring your tricams, and prepare for the pump and the sandbags. The Gunks hosts classic routes like High Exposure<\/a>, a steep, two-pitch 5.6 first climbed in 1941, and Bonnie’s Roof<\/a>, a 5.9 first climbed by Bonnie Prudden in 1952, 15 years after a doctor told her she\u2019d never be able to climb again. As you feel the exposure more than 100 feet off the deck, just remember: You\u2019ll never be as badass as Bonnie.<\/p>\n

The Adirondacks<\/strong><\/a>, New York<\/strong><\/h4>\n

 <\/em><\/strong>Adventure climbing in Upstate New York<\/em><\/p>\n

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The Fastest Gun (5.10b), Poke-O-Moonshine Face | Photo submitted by MP user Nate K<\/p><\/div>\n

If you want abundant rock but more solitude, look north to the Dacks. This massive, wild region was set aside as a preserve in 1885. Now, at over 6 million acres, it\u2019s the largest state park in the contiguous U.S. While thousands of routes exist in the region, they\u2019re dispersed to over 200 distinct areas, boasting everything from six-pitch adventures<\/a> to tenuous, single pitch projects<\/a>. While the climbing\u2019s predominantly trad, you\u2019ll find the occasional bolted line, as well. For a variety of brilliant moderate to hard climbs from one to five pitches, make your way out to the Poke-O-Moonshine Face<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Southeast<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Red River Gorge<\/strong><\/a>, Kentucky<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Sport climbing heaven<\/em><\/p>\n

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The Motherlode, Red River Gorge | Photo submitted by MP user jacob pyne<\/p><\/div>\n

Come for the overhung jug hauling, stay for the pizza. The Red is arguably the most popular climbing locale in the Southeast, due to its strong community, natural beauty and abundance of steep sport lines. Bolts abound on this Kentucky sandstone, and you\u2019ll find ample routes of all imaginable difficulties. The Red\u2019s also home to the famed Miguel\u2019s Pizza<\/a>, perhaps the only camping joint in the country that doubles as a pizza parlor. And don\u2019t forget to soothe the pump with a nice, cold Ale-8-One. Huck your way up A Brief History of Climb (5.10b)<\/a> to get a sample of the style. <\/strong><\/p>\n

The New River Gorge<\/strong><\/a>, West Virginia<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Limitless technical climbing on perfect, southern sandstone<\/em><\/p>\n

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Legacy (5.11a) | Photo submitted by MP user Justin Andre<\/p><\/div>\n

The New River Gorge holds more than 60 miles of cliff and more than 3,000 routes. The diversity of style here is boundless, but the area\u2019s known for a few distinct traits: long reaches, fancy footwork and healthily spaced bolts. Although the area doesn\u2019t have many options for beginner climbers, it\u2019s a perfect locale to hone your technique. To get a taste of what the climbing\u2019s all about, fire your way up Legacy<\/a> on the Snake Buttress<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch<\/strong><\/a>, Arkansas<\/strong><\/h4>\n

A climbing hub for anyone who loves ranch dogs, goats and bullet-hard stone<\/em><\/p>\n

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Crimp Scampi (5.10 c\/d) | Photo submitted by MP user John Calder<\/p><\/div>\n

If you think your climbing party could use a few more goats, horses and ranch dogs to hang out with, make the journey over to HCR. The ranch hosts spectacular scenery, stellar sport climbing, tenuous trad and bullet-hard boulders\u2014as well as a welcoming community of climbers. Finesse your way to the top of Crimp Scampi<\/a> to get used to the style. Nearby, you\u2019ll find more world-class sandstone climbing at places like Sam’s Throne<\/a>, Fountain Red<\/a>, Cave Creek<\/a> and Candy Mountain<\/a>. Don\u2019t forget to gorge yourself on an Excaliburger<\/a> from the Ozark Caf\u00e9 before you leave.<\/p>\n

Rockies<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Shelf Road<\/strong><\/a>, Colorado<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Beautiful limestone crimping in the high, Colorado desert<\/em><\/p>\n

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Funkdamental (5.11a), Shelf Road | Photo submitted by MP user Jason Halladay<\/p><\/div>\n

In the high desert just outside Ca\u00f1on City, Colorado, hundreds of high-quality limestone routes sit waiting for temperatures to cool enough for climbers to start pulling down. Nearly all the climbing\u2019s bolted, but ample routes exist for anyone climbing 5.8 and up. Cut your teeth on the endless, sunny routes on Cactus Cliff<\/a>. Just watch out for the cholla.<\/p>\n

Little Cottonwood Canyon<\/strong><\/a>, Utah<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Fall friction just a half hour from Salt Lake City<\/em><\/p>\n

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Stifler’s Mom (5.11a) | Photo submitted by MP user greg t<\/p><\/div>\n

LCC boasts hundreds of high-quality, quartz monzonite routes <\/strong>of all varieties. Here you\u2019ll find everything from classic, single-pitch romps like The Coffin<\/a> to 12-pitch adventures like Stiffler’s Mom<\/a>. Most climbs are traditional in style, but the coarse rock makes for excellent friction.<\/p>\n

Devils Tower<\/strong><\/a>, Wyoming <\/strong><\/h4>\n

Iconic crack climbing in the plains of Wyoming<\/em><\/p>\n

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Devils Tower | Photo submitted by MP user Kris Gorny<\/p><\/div>\n

First climbed in 1893 by some local ranchers with a handmade ladder, Devils Tower is a crack climber\u2019s paradise. Start your trip on the Durrance Route<\/a>, the area\u2019s easiest summit route, and one of the \u201c50 Classic Climbs of North America.\u201d Continue your adventure on any number of the hundreds of crack climbs that line the perimeter of the Tower. \u201cPeople always think summer\u2019s the best time to climb,\u201d superintendent of Devils Tower National Monument Tim Reid says. \u201cBut I think there\u2019s no time to climb Devils Tower like the fall.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pacific Northwest<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Smith Rock<\/strong><\/a>, Oregon<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Thousands of routes just a couple hours from Portland<\/em><\/p>\n

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Voyage of the Cowdog (5.8) | Photo submitted by MP user Paul Trendler<\/p><\/div>\n

The birthplace of sport climbing in the U.S., Smith hosts enough climbing to keep you busy for years. Marvel at the first 5.14<\/a> in North America, drink some whiskey with the other dirtbags at the Bivy<\/a> and be sure to venture beyond the main crags to the interesting basalt climbing in the upper and lower gorges. Bolts here are a little spacy, and the first one is often high\u2014so bring a stick clip. Crimp on up Moons of Pluto<\/a> to get a sense of what the climbing\u2019s all about.<\/p>\n

Leavenworth<\/strong><\/a>, Washington<\/strong><\/h4>\n

World-class bouldering and adventurous cragging over Icicle Creek<\/em><\/p>\n

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Forestlands, Icicle Creek | Photo submitted by MP user Peter Franzen<\/p><\/div>\n

Just outside the quirky Bavarian town of Leavenworth sits world-class bouldering and spectacular moderate climbing on beautiful granite. Most of the climbs here are traditional in nature, and most are single pitch. However, if you look hard enough you\u2019ll find ample multipitch adventures, like Orbit<\/a> and Outer Space<\/a>. For those who want to ditch the rope, the area\u2019s also home to some of the best bouldering in the states at the Forestlands<\/a> in Icicle Creek.<\/p>\n

Vantage<\/strong><\/a>, Washington<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Hip-splitting stemming in the Washington desert<\/em><\/p>\n

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Sunshine Wall, Vantage | Photo submitted by MP user Andrew Davidson<\/p><\/div>\n

With Dr. Seuss-like columns of basalt, Vantage offers sport and trad lines for nearly any level of climber. While you can find all styles of climbing here, it\u2019s the stemming that makes the place unique. Check out the abundance of classic, moderate lines on the King Pins<\/a>. Make sure to do your yoga and stretch those hips before heading this way.<\/p>\n

Desert Southwest<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Indian Creek<\/strong><\/a>, Utah<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Laser-cut lines that haunt the dreams of crack climbers the world over<\/em><\/p>\n

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Scarface (5.11b) | Photo submitted by MP user Frosty Weller<\/p><\/div>\n

How do you know it\u2019s fall in Utah? All the license plates turn green. While verdant license plates flow over the border from Colorado, climbers from all over the country flock to the desert in search of perfect sandstone cracks as soon as fall comes around. Indian Creek is a crack-climbing mecca, and hosts four-star lines from 5.9 and up. Make sure to bring some tape, borrow every last cam you can convince your friends to give you, and hit the road. Cut your teeth on the abundant moderate lines in Donnelly Canyon<\/a>. To get a taste of some more desert cracks, head up to Long Canyon<\/a>, and for some of the best towers the desert has to offer, venture towards Castle Valley<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Joe’s Valley<\/strong><\/a>, Utah<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Picturesque bouldering a short walk from the car<\/em><\/p>\n

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Pimpin’ Jeans (V3\/4) | Photo submitted by MP user Emerson Takahashi<\/p><\/div>\n

While the trad-heads will get their fix down at the Creek, the muscle-bound boulderers can find everything their hearts desire over at Joe\u2019s. One of the best bouldering areas in the country, beautiful, striped boulders dot the landscape and host hundreds of engaging and powerful problems. Best of all, you\u2019ll only have to haul your pad a few minutes from the car to get a good pump. Power your way up Bowling Ball<\/a> for a piece of what the area has to offer.<\/p>\n

Oak Creek Canyon<\/strong><\/a>, Arizona<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Adventurous trad climbing just outside Flagstaff<\/em><\/p>\n

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Black and Tan (5.10) | Photo submitted by MP user RyanJames<\/p><\/div>\n

Thrash your fingers and hands in hard cracks at Pumphouse Wash<\/a>, or perfect your technique on the beautiful columnar basalt at The Waterfall<\/a>. Bring all the gear you can muster and a solid lead head. The area hosts tons of offshoots and side canyons, so those with a thirst for exploration can get a taste of adventure here, as well.<\/p>\n

The Road Goes on Forever<\/h2>\n
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Photo Credit: Nick Mott<\/p><\/div>\n

Fall isn’t the only time you can make the best of the weather. If you know where to go, you can find sending temps any month of the year. But make sure to do your research first. Before you pack your gear, use this map<\/a> to find the crags that are in season whenever you hit the road.<\/p>\n

(Move tab below to highlight sendiest crags in a given month.)<\/em><\/p>\n