{"id":202958,"date":"2026-10-19T09:43:48","date_gmt":"2026-10-19T16:43:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=202958"},"modified":"2026-10-19T10:52:59","modified_gmt":"2026-10-19T17:52:59","slug":"gear-check-jim-morrison","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/snowsports\/gear-check-jim-morrison","title":{"rendered":"Gear Check: Jim Morrison\u2019s Legendary Ski Descent of Mount Everest\u2019s Hornbein Couloir"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

It took years for ski mountaineer Jim Morrison to prepare to ski the north face of Mount Everest via the famously treacherous Hornbein Couloir\u2014and then only 4 hours and 5 minutes to ski it. A new film that premieres October 30 documents Morrison\u2019s 2025 journey to Everest. \u201cEverest: The Other Side<\/a>\u201d is directed by Academy Award-winning Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi of \u201cFree Solo\u201d fame. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We sat down with Morrison at his home in the Lake Tahoe area in California to talk about his storied Everest expedition, what he hopes audiences take away from the film, and the gear that\u2019s essential to his attempts.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
World-renowned ski mountaineer and The North Face athlete Jim Morrison. Photo credit: National Geographic\/Savannah Cummins\u00a0<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Long Road to the Hornbein Couloir<\/strong> <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Morrison and his life partner, the late ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson, dreamed for years about skiing the north face of Mount Everest. But the duo only began to make concrete plans to do so in 2018 after completing the first ski<\/a> descent of the Lhotse Couloir<\/a> on Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain in the world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen you come home from those expeditions, people ask you, \u2018What\u2019s next?\u2019 So, you start to ask yourself that question,\u201d Morrison tells Uncommon Path. \u201cWe had spent so much time on Everest looking at conditions and lines on the north face. We studied how you can get in and out of there. We slowly put the parts together to make it work.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld first climbed the route in 1963 that would later be known as Hornbein Couloir, armed with a single photograph taken 20 miles away. In the decades since, five other teams have ascended the route. But no one had skied it. A handful of skiers and snowboarders have descended other, less technical routes off the summit of Mount Everest. Y\u016bichir\u014d Miura from Japan first skied a lower section of Everest in 1970. In the early 2000s, several mountaineers from around the world, including Americans Kit and Rob DesLauriers and Jimmy Chin, skied from the summit.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nelson and Morrison hoped to be the first to descend the Hornbein Couloir on skis. They never got the chance to do it together. In 2022, Nelson and Morrison were on an expedition on Mount Manaslu, the world\u2019s eighth-highest peak. After summiting together, they had begun their descent on skis when an avalanche swept Nelson, then 49, to her death. Morrison spent days searching for her body, which was eventually recovered. He returned home alone and brokenhearted.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cEverything fell apart after that,\u201d Morrison says. \u201cI couldn\u2019t understand how or why that happened. At that point, I never wanted to climb a mountain again.\u201d  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Getting Back on His Feet<\/strong> <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This was not the first tragedy Morrison had lived through: In 2011, his wife, Katie, was killed in a personal airplane crash alongside their two young children, Wyatt, 6, and Hannah, 5. Leaving his house afterward felt insurmountable. \u201cMy world stopped,\u201d Morrison said afterward. \u201cIt was hard to get out of bed. But if I could look outside and see what a beautiful day it was, I could get up.\u201d  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eventually, he made it out the front door. Then, he made it to the end of his driveway. Day by day; brick by brick, he says now.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Years later, he met Nelson on an expedition in the Himalayas. The two began climbing together and eventually decided to build a life together. After Nelson died on Mount Manaslu in 2022, grief paralyzed him again. Taking his dog for a walk felt like all he could do. But he knew Nelson wouldn\u2019t have wanted him to give up on their dreams. \u201cI had a lot of emotion and grief, and [held] conversations with her in my own way: \u2018Should I keep trying to do this? Is it worth it? What do you think?\u2019\u201d he says. \u201cI didn\u2019t get a lot of answers,\u201d he adds with a smile. \u201cBut I felt compelled to keep going. I had a feeling that this was what she would want me to do. And I knew this would be a way to highlight how incredible a person she was.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Jim
Jim Morrison climbs with a team member behind him. Photo credit: National Geographic\/Leo Hoorn<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So, in 2023, he returned to the high peaks of the Himalaya. \u201cI went to Everest with this goal of trying to finish this dream of ours,\u201d he says. In 2023 and again in 2024, however, they couldn\u2019t summit due to stormy weather and injuries.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In October 2025, Morrison returned for a third and final attempt. He and his team spent nearly seven weeks on Everest, battling severe weather and heavy snowfall. He spent days without leaving his tent at camps high on the mountain. \u201cUltimately, I surrendered to the whole thing,\u201d he says. \u201cIt was either going to work, or it wasn\u2019t.\u201d  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Miraculously, the weather cleared and the team finally made it to the summit at 12:45 p.m. on Oct. 15. \u201cI had this incredible moment at the summit looking over into Nepal and at Lhotse and Makalu, mountains I\u2019d been on with Hilaree, and felt this surreal connection,\u201d he recalls. He spread some of her ashes, then clicked into his skis.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson in Silver Peak near Palisades Tahoe, California. (credit: Jim Morrison)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

These were the most challenging conditions the 50-year-old skier had ever faced\u2014a narrow, icy, 1,500-vertical-foot gully that tilted to 60 degrees in places. Knowing that his life was on the line, Morrison executed careful hop-turns. A little lower, he rappelled 650 feet over a rocky crux, then skied all the way to the bergschrund below. In total, the route descended 12,000 vertical feet to the Rongbuk Glacier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI had this spectacular four hours of skiing in the hardest ski conditions. I knew it was my one and only chance to be here and do this,\u201d he says. \u201cI was laser focused. I crossed the bergschrund and immediately felt Hilaree\u2019s energy. I talked to her, I cried, I screamed. I celebrated that moment with her. I\u2019d been training for that moment for years. And on this day, I looked up at the mountain, and I could feel Hilaree\u2019s presence.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Film That Captures It All<\/strong> <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The new film \u201cEverest: The Other Side\u201d tells the story not only of Morrison\u2019s legendary ski descent but of the entire, heartbreaking journey to get there. Morrison hopes that people who see the film will understand that no matter how hard life gets, simply getting outside and putting one foot in front of the other can make an impact on where they are in life.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt doesn\u2019t need to be climbing Everest. We all have our own Everest in us,\u201d Morrison says. \u201cEveryone goes through loss. The mountains have clearly taken a lot from me, but they have provided me so much, too. No matter how hard your day is, no matter what you\u2019re going through, if you go outside and take a walk, 100 percent of the time, things feel better.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Morrison didn\u2019t get to the top of Everest by looking at the summit. He got there by figuring out how to get to the start. \u201cI took it one step at a time, day by day. I\u2019ve built my life on that sentiment,\u201d he says. \u201cKeep going. Keep trying. No matter how hard things get, know you\u2019re not going to get past it or fix it. But you\u2019ll learn to accept it. To carry it with you.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gear Check <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When it comes to choosing gear for a big Himalayan expedition, Morrison relies on gear he knows and trusts. \u201cI\u2019ve been doing this for so long, and I\u2019ve tried and tested so many things,\u201d says. On Everest, he wasn\u2019t trying out anything new. Here\u2019s what he brought along, and why.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Jim
Morrison wearing his favorite fleece inside his gear closet at his home in the Lake Tahoe area. Photo credit: Megan Michelson.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The North Face Summit Series FUTUREFLEECE Full-Zip Hoodie<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether Morrison is climbing a 20,000-foot peak or heading to the grocery store, he\u2019s always wearing his favorite FUTUREFLEECE hoodie. \u201cThat\u2019s my go-to, No. 1 piece of gear,\u201d he says. \u201cI live in it. It doesn\u2019t weigh much and it provides a ton of warmth.\u201d Made with recycled materials, this slim-fitting hoodie also comes in a non-hooded version<\/a> and a women\u2019s fit<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The North Face Summit FUTURELIGHT Torre Egger Jacket<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This Summit Series shell is named after a peak in South America\u2019s Southern Patagonian Ice Field. \u201cI always have a shell with me, no matter where I\u2019m skiing. This one is thin and lightweight but robust,\u201d Morrison says. Designed for alpine climbing, the Torre Egger Jacket is made from three-layer, 20-denier FUTURELIGHT\u2122 fabric that\u2019s waterproof, breathable and seam-sealed. It\u2019s got a helmet-compatible hood and underarm vents for temperature control. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The North Face Summit Nuptse Down Jacket<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ski
Jim Morrison wearing The North Face Summit Nuptse Down Jacket<\/a>. Photo courtesy: TNF<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Every expedition requires a good down jacket for base camp. For Morrison, that\u2019s the Nuptse Jacket, which is based on a heritage piece but has been revamped for the modern user. \u201cIt\u2019s incredibly versatile,\u201d Morrison says. \u201cPicture a thicker, warmer down jacket, but one that\u2019s not so big you can\u2019t use it in normal life. It\u2019s warm enough that you could take it on a big mountain or a wild trip.\u201d Stuffed with 800-fill-power ProDown\u2122, the jacket has an ultralight woven ripstop exterior for long-term durability. You can stow the hood away when not in use. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anon M5 Snow Goggles<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you can\u2019t see well while skiing high-consequence terrain, you\u2019re in trouble. Morrison relies on his trusty Anon<\/a> M5 Goggles for a wide field of vision, fog-free venting, and a flat, toric-shaped lens for max visibility and visual clarity. Morrison travels with a couple of lenses for varying weather and light conditions. \u201cYou can switch the lenses out with magnets,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s very easy.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Black Crows Camox Freebird Skis<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

At 95mm underfoot, the Camox Freebird is a pretty wide ski to haul to the roof of the world. But Morrison chose these skis for their mix of lightweight construction and strong, stable skiability. For firm conditions and steep skiing, he wants to make sure he has a ski that\u2019s stiff enough to handle the conditions. \u201cA lot of skis are lighter, but they don\u2019t ski as well,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s a delicate balance. I find it\u2019s worth taking a little extra weight so you can actually shred on the way down.\u201d The Camox Freebird\u2019s core is made from a mix of carbon fiber and fiberglass with Titanal\u00ae reinforcement, ensuring it\u2019s both lightweight and strong. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Jim
Morrison doesn’t mind the slightly heavier Black Crows Camox Freebird Skis so he can \u201cshred on the way down.\u201d Photo credit: Jimmy Chin.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro Alpine Touring Ski Boots<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis is the same boot I use backcountry skiing and skiing inbounds at home in Tahoe,\u201d Morrison says. For Everest he only added a neoprene overboot for warmth. \u201cEveryone thought I was crazy for not bringing a lighter boot. But I skied off the summit of Everest like I ski off the summit of any mountain.\u201d While the Tecnica\u2019s<\/a> aren\u2019t the lightest boot on the market, Morrison didn\u2019t want to second-guess the performance or durability of what was on his feet. Instead, he trained hard enough that he could carry any additional weight. (\u201cAnd I had an incredible team who did all the work to get everything there,\u201d he adds.) The Zero G Tour Pro boots have a wide range of motion for easy uphill movement, with Power Frame construction for a progressive flex on the way downhill. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

ATK FreeRaider 15 Evo Alpine Touring Bindings<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nothing demands a binding you can trust like a steep, no-fall-zone line … like the Hornbein Couloir. \u201cIf one of my skis came off, I would die,\u201d Morrison says. \u201cI really had to trust the limit of what my bindings could handle.\u201d For moments like that, he chose ATK<\/a> bindings, which are lightweight yet precisely engineered to handle steep skiing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pomoca Tour Pro Climbing Skins<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Made from a mix of mohair and nylon, Pomoca\u2019s<\/a> climbing skins are easy to use and extra grippy. Morrison used his to head uphill on snow on the lower flanks of Everest to reach Camp 1, but he also uses these skins while backcountry skiing back home. \u201cThese are what\u2019s in my pack at all times,\u201d he says. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The North Face Snomad 34 Snow Pack<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Morrison didn\u2019t bring his Snomad Pack up Everest, but he used the pack during all his training leading up to the expedition. \u201cIf I\u2019m backcountry skiing on the west shore of Lake Tahoe, this is the pack I use to put my skins in, my down jacket, my shell,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s got a place to put your helmet and your goggles. I skin up, put those layers on, then ski down.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A peek inside Morrison\u2019s gear closet at his home in California.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The North Face Inferno 0F Sleeping Bag<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The North Face<\/a> Inferno collection of sleeping bags comes in a range of temperatures, from 15\u00b0F to -40\u00b0 and in both long and regular lengths. \u201cI used a 10\u00b0F sleeping bag, which I would sleep in while wearing all of my down layers when I was high on the mountain, because I had to pare everything down,\u201d Morrison says. \u201cAt Camp 1, I had a 20\u00b0F version of the same bag.\u201d Known for its high warmth-to-weight ratio and cinched hood, the Inferno is a packable bag with 800-fill-power ProDown. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

MSR Reactor Stove System<\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you\u2019re spending days inside a tent on the side of a mountain waiting for a weather window, it\u2019s nice to have your own coffee setup. Morrison brings his MSR<\/a> Reactor Stove System everywhere he goes, from Everest to a hotel room on his way to an expedition. \u201cEven if there\u2019s another place to get coffee, I still make coffee in my tent,\u201d he says. This stove and cookware system can boil water quickly in any conditions. And when it\u2019s time to pack up, the stove and fuel canister nest snugly inside the pot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Goal Zero Nomad 20 Solar Panel <\/strong><\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To charge his devices\u2014namely his phone and a small Bluetooth speaker to play music\u2014Morrison brings a compact solar charger. \u201cHaving a small, portable solar panel is critical,\u201d he says. The Goal Zero<\/a> Nomad 20 folds easily and has a solar capacity of 20 watts, or enough to power a phone, headlamp or GPS device. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It took years for ski mountaineer Jim Morrison to prepare to ski the north face of Mount Everest via the famously treacherous Hornbein Couloir\u2014and then only 4 hours and 5 minutes to ski it. A new film that premieres October 30 documents Morrison\u2019s 2025 journey to Everest. \u201cEverest: The Other Side\u201d is directed by Academy […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":30028,"featured_media":202993,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[11],"tags":[602,1581,724,727,1373,752,364],"internal-tag":[],"class_list":["post-202958","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-snowsports","tag-backcountry-skiing","tag-documentary","tag-gear","tag-latest-posts","tag-mount-everest","tag-ski-mountaineering","tag-snowsports"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/snowsports\/gear-check-jim-morrison","meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Gear Check: Jim Morrison\u2019s Legendary Ski Descent of Mount Everest\u2019s Hornbein Couloir","url":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/snowsports\/gear-check-jim-morrison","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/snowsports\/gear-check-jim-morrison"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2026\/10\/BigE_2025_Chin_IMG_0236-1.jpg?resize=150%2C150","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2026\/10\/BigE_2025_Chin_IMG_0236-1.jpg?fit=4000%2C2668"},"articleSection":"Snowsports","author":[{"@type":"Person","name":"Erin Berger"}],"creator":["Erin Berger"],"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Uncommon Path \u2013 An REI Co-op Publication","logo":""},"keywords":["backcountry skiing","documentary","gear","latest posts","mount everest","ski mountaineering","snowsports"],"dateCreated":"2026-10-19T16:43:48Z","datePublished":"2026-10-19T16:43:48Z","dateModified":"2026-10-19T17:52:59Z"},"rendered":"