{"id":195658,"date":"2024-02-12T14:16:52","date_gmt":"2024-02-12T22:16:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=195658"},"modified":"2024-03-05T09:39:36","modified_gmt":"2024-03-05T17:39:36","slug":"outdoor-brands-gender-neutral-clothing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/fitness\/outdoor-brands-gender-neutral-clothing","title":{"rendered":"Outdoor Brands Are Dropping Gender Labels"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dedicated runner J Solle <\/a>likes to be expressive with their clothing, whether in daily fashion or when running the streets and parks of New York City. Yet, until recently, the 29-year-old program manager struggled to find technical apparel that fit the bill. As a nonbinary athlete, Solle had two options for running clothes: men\u2019s or women\u2019s. The choices left them feeling \u201ctrapped in a box that didn\u2019t feel right.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

About a year ago, however, they learned of an athletic brand that’s removed gender labeling from its line. Today, you\u2019ll often find Solle sporting a crop top from that brand, Bakline, and feeling themself very much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI\u2019ve spent a long time looking for clothes that bring me joy and make me feel comfortable,\u201d says Solle. \u201cClothing is a big part of expression\u2014what we put on our bodies helps us express how we identify.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

While Bakline is among the first athletic brands to design a line of unisex clothing, it’s gaining an increasing amount of company. From prAna<\/a> and Smartwool<\/a> to Janji<\/a> and REI<\/u> Co-op<\/a>, activewear brands are making strides to be more inclusive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Long-Overdue Concept<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The arc to gender-neutral activewear has been long, but it’s an essential step in the movement to diversify the outdoor industry. Outdoor brands\u2014criticized for their homogenous advertisements, sizing and styles\u2014have slowly come around to a more inclusive picture by featuring more women, people of color, athletes with disabilities and those who wear extended sizes<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bakline made a concerted effort to involve nonbinary runners in designing its unisex line, and Solle took part in these discussions when the brand put out a call for nonbinary athletes to share their thoughts, which Solle was pleased with. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOne of the most important points we conveyed to Bakline is that we want to choose clothing that works for our bodies, and that\u2019s descriptive in its name, rather than gender-based,\u201d Solle says. The result is running clothing that falls into the categories of \u201ccontoured cut,\u201d or \u201cstraight cut.\u201d As the Bakline website states, the brand is providing athletic clothing \u201cusing language to better describe how garments are shaped, rather than traditional gender labels.\u201d Attention to detail in design, the size guide and plenty of photos go a long way in affirming these clothing lines and delivering what the nonbinary athlete needs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Outdoor brands\u2014long criticized for their homogenous advertisements, sizing and styles\u2014have slowly come around to a more inclusive picture.<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Janji<\/a>, which launched a unisex clothing line in 2018, has taken these considerations seriously when designing gear for all runners’ gender expressions. \u201cFor something like our Runterra Bio Tees, we make them a bit looser cut than a traditional women\u2019s, but a bit tighter than a traditional men\u2019s,\u201d explains Janji co-founder Dave Spandorfer. \u201cFor prints, we don\u2019t hold back, regardless of who it\u2019s for and what gender you identify with.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spandorfer adds that Janji aims to recognize and affirm people’s differences. Just like it’s important to have different extended sizes, he says, it’s important to have different fits to represent the array of how people identify and how people like their products to be worn. \u201cIt won’t change the world, obviously, but it goes a small way to ensure more people are welcomed in the sport of running,” he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smartwool Steps Up<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As brands examine the viability of unisex clothing, they may find that introducing these lines could connect them to audiences they\u2019re excluding or alienating by upholding the gender binary across styles. According to the U.S. Census Bureau 2021 Household Pulse Survey,<\/a> Generation Z young adults are 20 times more likely to identify as transgender<\/mark> than baby boomers. Like Solle, Gen Zs want the freedom to express themselves through their clothing without being forced to adhere to binary gender labels. Athletic wear (and athleisure<\/a>) is no different, but it has lagged behind its streetwear cousin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe outdoor industry as a whole hasn\u2019t always made people feel comfortable and, until lately, has stuck with old-school gender-conforming styles and sizes,\u201d says Sue Jesch, director of design at Smartwool<\/a>. But when the Smartwool team collaborated with ski brand Jiberish 2021, they discovered there\u2019s an appetite for a break from conformity. \u201cThat opened our eyes to the potential opportunities out there,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Smartwool began compiling macrotrends about what was happening at the consumer level. \u201cWe talked about this opportunity that exists and how it matches our vision, which is to get more people outside,\u201d says Jesch. \u201cWe want to make people feel comfortable in their skin and in what they are wearing.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The design team agreed that a gender-neutral line would align with their values and vision, and since fall 2022, Smartwool has built these options into its collection every season. \u201cIt was the right thing to do,\u201d says Jesch. \u201cHas it been margin positive so far? No.\u00a0But it\u2019s right to instigate change.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

REI for Everyone <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

REI Co-op, too, has designed what it calls \u201ca collection for everyone\u201d that became available online<\/a> this winter and will launch in stores this spring. Marisa Johnson, product manager for REI Co-op brands, says the update to the Active Pursuits collection is about celebrating all bodies, with broad extended sizing and fits. \u201cThis is partly a recognition of the younger consumer,\u201d she explains. \u201cWe know that over half of Gen Z shops outside of their assigned gender category. We have a desire to serve a population that has been underserved.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That means designing pieces that allow consumers to buy by activity or style, rather than gender. Johnson says the clothing will appeal to the LGBTQ+ community, and its allies, who want to show up in gender-free spaces. \u201cNothing is more uncomfortable than when a store employee directs you to a certain spot, one that doesn\u2019t fit your identity,\u201d she says. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A skateboarder in the relaxed t-shirt in Harvest Sage<\/a> and midweight joggers in Magenta Twilight<\/a> from the REI Co-op Active Pursuits collection<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Solle cosigns that sentiment. \u201cFor a long time, I\u2019ve shopped in the women\u2019s section in stores,\u201d they say. \u201cBut when I walk into that space, employees will try to direct me to the men\u2019s section. It\u2019s uncomfortable.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The new REI Co-op Active Pursuits line includes six styles, broken down by color, offering a total of 15 choices in its first iteration. \u201cIt builds in the versatility of today\u2019s lifestyles and is good, comfortable active clothing,\u201d says Johnson. \u201cSo, you\u2019ll be able to work out, work from home and take the dog out for a walk at lunchtime in the same clothing.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Look for cotton and knit-blend T-shirts<\/a>, joggers<\/a>, tights<\/a> and shorts<\/a>, among other items<\/a> in the line. The pieces are wicking and quick drying, provide stretch, and feature an aesthetic that appeals to everyone<\/a>, not categorized genders. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And while this may be the first season of the line, Johnson says consumers should expect more to come. \u201cWe\u2019re putting a stake in the ground,\u201d she explains. \u201cThis isn\u2019t an experiment, and we intend to constantly refresh the line and grow it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

prAna Reimagines Its Heritage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This year, prAna<\/a> brought to life its heritage collection<\/a>, a unisex line that took inspiration from its \u201cvault\u201d of styles from the ’90s. Pieces fit looser than its other lines and were sized more for a male frame, according to the company. But people did not embrace it as the brand had hoped. \u201cOur product team was noticing lots of cross-shopping in the market,\u201d says prAna marketing director Jasmine Fernandez. \u201cAs we\u2019ve launched it, however, we\u2019ve found that our female consumers haven\u2019t liked it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The feedback centered on the climbing pants’ sizing, which many women reported as too baggy or boxy in some areas. \u201cWe\u2019re taking the feedback and seeing how we can better serve consumers in what they want,\u201d says Fernandez. \u201cWe\u2019ll reground and tweak the line for a relaunch in 2025.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Expect to see the looser fits and cross-gender styling to remain in tops and layering pieces, says Fernandez. \u201cWe\u2019re going to relaunch with a gender-neutral style, but consider the nuances of fit,\u201d she says. \u201cOur designers are looking at how to offer more variety and options so that we\u2019re responding to our customers.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Designing for Inclusivity<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When brands design gender-neutral clothing, they take different approaches, and often it comes down to the piece itself. When it comes to determining proper sizing, Spandorfer says that \u201cno body is the same, whether you’re male, female, nonbinary or however someone identifies.\u201d He recommends that athletes look at size charts (ideally advanced versions with different body types and visual references), reach out to customer service and, when possible, shop in person.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Similarly, Smartwool \u201claddered in\u201d standard men\u2019s and women\u2019s sizes to its unisex line to look for synergies. \u201cIt\u2019s about finding common language for design,\u201d says Jesch. \u201cWe went with a looser fit to accommodate all body types, but kept them functional too.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consumers wearing these pieces can find adjustable details to make them work how they like. Cuffed wrists, for example, or an adjustable waist. Smartwool designers also carefully considered the fabrics they used so that customers had loose or tight fit options, worked in drop shoulders and drop armholes in certain styles, and sometimes oversized the necklines. \u201cWe added things, took some away, tested it, vetted it and then went to market,\u201d says Jesch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A runner in the REI Co-op Active Pursuits 6″ shorts in Sargasso Sea<\/a> and pullover midweight crew in Alloy Gray Heather<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So far, Smartwool is only selling its unisex line online, direct to consumers, and has experienced a slow but positive adoption rate. The brand says this is just the start: It will continue to add pieces to the collection moving forward, recognizing the need for change. Not every piece of unisex clothing is a hit for brands that offer them, but that\u2019s true even of gender-specific clothing. \u201cThere are hits and there are misses,\u201d says Spandorfer of Janji. \u201cWe did a gender-neutral singlet that didn\u2019t work, both due to the natural constriction of the fabric and where it was merchandised. Meanwhile, our gender-neutral Runterra Bio tees have been a hit, and we quickly sold out of our split shorts, circuit crews, hoodies and joggers.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the REI Active Pursuits line launches in stores this spring, expect to see it holding its own space near the front, a nod to the commitment the company is making to gender-free shopping. \u201cWe\u2019re excited about this,\u201d says Johnson. \u201cOur methodology on the apparel side is that if a product doesn\u2019t have a specific reason to be gender-specific, then it\u2019s open game.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As more brands open their lines, athletes like Solle can now feel comfortable on the streets, and in their sport. \u201cWhen we break down the silos, it creates opportunities for everyone to buy clothes that make them feel comfortable and included,\u201d they say. \u201cIt\u2019s better for the brands and for everyone who wears them.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Shop REI Co-op Active Pursuits<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dedicated runner J Solle likes to be expressive with their clothing, whether in daily fashion or when running the streets and parks of New York City. Yet, until recently, the 29-year-old program manager struggled to find technical apparel that fit the bill. As a nonbinary athlete, Solle had two options for running clothes: men\u2019s or women\u2019s. The choices left […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":30729,"featured_media":195659,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,10],"tags":[2248,1812,1792,32,2249,2251,1878,421,359,2250],"internal-tag":[2011],"class_list":["post-195658","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fitness","category-run","tag-active-pursuits","tag-co-op-brands","tag-extended-sizing","tag-fitness","tag-gender-neutral-clothing","tag-inclusive-sizing","tag-pride","tag-rei-co-op","tag-run","tag-unisex-clothing","internal-tag-home-secondary"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/fitness\/outdoor-brands-gender-neutral-clothing","smart_links":{"inbound":0,"outbound":0},"traffic_boost_suggestions_count":0,"meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Outdoor Brands Are Dropping Gender Labels","url":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/fitness\/outdoor-brands-gender-neutral-clothing","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/fitness\/outdoor-brands-gender-neutral-clothing"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2024\/02\/Kingman20231129_0919.jpeg?resize=150%2C150","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2024\/02\/Kingman20231129_0919.jpeg?fit=2000%2C1334"},"articleSection":"Fitness","author":[{"@type":"Person","name":"Cassie da Costa"}],"creator":["Cassie da Costa"],"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Uncommon Path \u2013 An REI Co-op Publication","logo":""},"keywords":["active pursuits","co-op brands","extended sizing","fitness","gender neutral clothing","inclusive sizing","pride","rei co-op","run","unisex clothing"],"dateCreated":"2024-02-12T22:16:52Z","datePublished":"2024-02-12T22:16:52Z","dateModified":"2024-03-05T17:39:36Z"},"rendered":"