{"id":162714,"date":"2000-09-02T16:50:22","date_gmt":"2000-09-02T23:50:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/?p=162714"},"modified":"2020-11-25T12:18:09","modified_gmt":"2020-11-25T20:18:09","slug":"coeur-du-temps","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/run\/coeur-du-temps","title":{"rendered":"Coeur Du Temps"},"content":{"rendered":"

Editor\u2019s note: This article is part of the Joy of Resilience<\/a> content series, sponsored by Arc\u2019teryx. This article was first published on the Arc’teryx blog<\/a>.\u00a0<\/i><\/p>\n

\n

Words: Josh Barringer<\/p>\n

Photos: Angela Percival<\/p>\n

Each new adventure and new place I\u2019m fortunate to visit, I always try to take away a word. One word, like a photo, can hold a depth of stories. As the plane approached Bastia I stared down at the vast coastline, wondering what the upcoming week on Corsica would reveal.<\/span><\/p>\n

The first thing you notice arriving on Corsica is the beauty every<\/span>where at once. The eye cannot\u00a0<\/span>decide where to put its focus. In one direction, clear,\u00a0<\/span>turquoise<\/span>\u00a0waters reach toward sandy bays<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>and delicately placed old forts, while in the other direction, la<\/span>yers of looming granite spires\u00a0<\/span>fade in<\/span>to the distance.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Each breath inflates your lungs with the\u00a0<\/span>unique aroma of the\u00a0<\/span>maquis<\/span>, a\u00a0<\/span>scent so unmistakably wild and aromatic, it was the\u00a0<\/span>way marker<\/span>\u00a0for N<\/span>apoleon Bonaparte returning to\u00a0<\/span>his homeland. Then comes the reminder you are indeed on an islan<\/span>d and island time. Everything,\u00a0<\/span>everyone appears more relaxed and seemingly prideful in a sl<\/span>ower pace of life than on \u201cthe\u00a0<\/span>continent,\u201d as mainland France is\u00a0<\/span>affectionately\u00a0<\/span><\/i>referred.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Time here feels slower, well-aged.\u00a0<\/span>Over centuries of Italian and French rule, Corsica has developed a distinct culture and cuisine.\u00a0<\/span>The island<\/span>\u00a0is full of familiar dishes with an entirely Corsican variation.\u00a0<\/span>In<\/span>\u00a0the 1500s, a couple hundred years before the centuries of Italian ruling ended,<\/span>\u00a0landowners were required\u00a0<\/span>to\u00a0<\/span>plant four trees each year \u2013 olive, chestnut, fig, and mulberry. The chestnut became an integral component of the economy and the food. The wild boar\u00a0<\/span>eat<\/span>\u00a0them producing the distinct\u00a0<\/span>figatellu<\/span>\u00a0sausage. Chestnut flour began to be used in breads, pastries, pastas, and in\u00a0<\/span>moderna<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>Corsica\u2019s most popular<\/span>\u00a0beer,\u00a0<\/span>Pietra<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

It is with concerted effort and passing of traditions that the particular palette here developed.\u00a0<\/span>The\u00a0<\/span>flavours<\/span>\u00a0of these resilient and resourceful people is most apparent in the brocciu cheese, used in numerous recipes including\u00a0<\/span>fiadone<\/span>, a cheesecake a<\/span>lso utilizing chestnut flour. Brocciu resembles ricotta, but is made from ewe\u2019s milk. However,\u00a0<\/span>unlike ricotta,\u00a0<\/span>it is not the curds, but the whey used to create brocciu. Shepherds not wanting to waste a drop of the<\/span>ir<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>valuable milk<\/span>\u00a0developed a\u00a0<\/span>method<\/span>\u00a0to make the whey<\/span>, a<\/span>\u00a0recipe\u00a0<\/span>that was<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>passed on<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>for<\/span>\u00a0generations.<\/span><\/p>\n

Corsica derives its name from Greek for of the\u00a0<\/span>Sirens<\/span><\/i>. A more than fitting name for a<\/span>\u00a0place with an ancient tradition of polyphonic choruses,\u00a0<\/span>shimmering coastlines,<\/span>\u00a0and<\/span>\u00a0a vast\u00a0<\/span>and varied\u00a0<\/span>mountain w<\/span>ilderness<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>Roads connecting villages cling to the mountainsides.\u00a0<\/span>And through the middle of this remarkable island lay the GR20, a test of resilience for all who are drawn to its hypnotic song.<\/span><\/p>\n

The GR20 is one of many\u00a0<\/span>Grande\u00a0<\/span><\/i>Randonn\u00e9e<\/span><\/i>\u00a0footpaths in Europe, but is given the\u00a0<\/span>honour<\/span>\u00a0of being the most difficult. A\u00a0<\/span>claim seemingly unchallenged, which<\/span>\u00a0builds\u00a0<\/span>the mystique<\/span>\u00a0surrounding the terrain that lies within.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

The north to south adventure of the GR20 begins with the smell of the sea and quickly ascends through pine forests and flowing pools of clear green water to shale-covered scrambles and the first views of Monte\u00a0<\/span>Cintu<\/span>, the tallest peak on this mountain in the sea.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>The trail is unfiltered and raw. The ascents and descents are as aggressive as the flora.\u00a0<\/span>The terrain is so incredibly challenging it gives<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>time<\/span>\u00a0\u2013 more accurately forces a stop \u2013<\/span>\u00a0to admire sweeping views below and the coastline far in the\u00a0<\/span>distance. It beckons you to pause<\/span>, let the mind rest before tackling another stretch. But\u00a0<\/span>q<\/span><\/i>ui\u00a0<\/span><\/i>n\u2019avance<\/span><\/i>\u00a0pas,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>recule<\/span><\/i>.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Beyond Monte\u00a0<\/span>Cintu<\/span>\u00a0are<\/span>\u00a0the glacial lakes of\u00a0<\/span>Vall\u00e9e<\/span>\u00a0de la\u00a0<\/span>Restonica<\/span>\u00a0and\u00a0<\/span>moments of respite, flowing trails beside wild horse\u00a0<\/span>populated<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>marshes<\/span>, rolling through<\/span>\u00a0verdant land under a scorching sun. They are short lived though as towering scramble ascents postpone substantial progress. There are sections where a single misstep could be perilous. Each step must be carefully planned.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

On the fringes of the mountains,\u00a0<\/span>villages\u00a0<\/span>hang with ease.\u00a0<\/span>Quiet streets are a sign<\/span>\u00a0the\u00a0<\/span>villageois<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span>have<\/span>\u00a0all gathered at the caf\u00e9 for cards<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>T<\/span>ime to cure food and relationships. To experience the villages is to see the\u00a0<\/span>ancient\u00a0<\/span>time of Corsica, b<\/span>ut to venture through the\u00a0<\/span>prehistoric\u00a0<\/span>mountains exposes its heart.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After\u00a0<\/span>traversing the spectacularly difficult\u00a0<\/span>Aiguilles de\u00a0<\/span>Bavella<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0the nearby glittering coastal city of Porto Vecchio\u00a0<\/span>offers regenerative soaks in the Mediterranean. A picturesque view to reflect on the toil of time on the GR20. There are many words I could use to describe this place.<\/span>\u00a0Distinct. Rugged. Delicious.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>But of Corse, it\u2019s time.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Editor\u2019s note: This article is part of the Joy of Resilience content series, sponsored by Arc\u2019teryx. This article was first published on the Arc’teryx blog.\u00a0 Words: Josh Barringer Photos: Angela Percival Each new adventure and new place I\u2019m fortunate to visit, I always try to take away a word. One word, like a photo, can […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":57,"featured_media":162715,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"internal-tag":[],"class_list":["post-162714","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-run"],"parsely":{"version":"1.1.0","canonical_url":"https:\/\/rei.com\/blog\/run\/coeur-du-temps","smart_links":{"inbound":0,"outbound":0},"traffic_boost_suggestions_count":0,"meta":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Coeur Du Temps","url":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/run\/coeur-du-temps","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"http:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/run\/coeur-du-temps"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2020\/09\/190613_Corsica_03130shrp.jpg?resize=150%2C150","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.rei.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2020\/09\/190613_Corsica_03130shrp.jpg?fit=1200%2C801"},"articleSection":"Run","author":[{"@type":"Person","name":"Chelsea Davis"}],"creator":["Chelsea Davis"],"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Uncommon Path \u2013 An REI Co-op Publication","logo":""},"keywords":[],"dateCreated":"2000-09-02T23:50:22Z","datePublished":"2000-09-02T23:50:22Z","dateModified":"2020-11-25T20:18:09Z"},"rendered":"