The Edelrid MegaJul Belay Device is designed with high braking performance to assist the belayer with leader falls, yet also allows the belayer to pay out rope quickly when the leader needs it.
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Rated 4 out of
This device makes climbing saferThe MegaJul is the only belay/rappel device I use now. I can hold a leader sport dogging like a GriGri, rappel with single or double ropes it in autolock mode or smooth mode with an autoblock backup, belay two people following at the same time, ascent a rope with it if necessary - and best of all it provides a backup to the brake hand in case I get knocked by a falling rock or get slammed into the wall and drop the brake rope. Also, unlike many autolocking devices, the MegaJul builds good belay habits because you keep your brake hand on the rope at all times.
Doing all these things used to require multiple devices - the MegaJul does it all in a single unit that's as light as the smallest basic belay devices.
Date published: 2014-04-03
Rated 5 out of
Behold, the new gold standard."It's the Gri-TC!" one astute climber declared, when he saw the best of both worlds in action in this one, remarkable belay-rappel device by Edelrid. Tipping the scales at 62 grams and made of stainless steel rather than of aluminum--which tends to hold onto heat longer, and is far less durable--the Mega Jul solves the critical problem of today's spring-loaded and auto-locking belay devices: when a belayer is forced to pay out lots of rope--and rapidly--these devices work too well, often binding up, resulting in an erratic and "short-roped" belay at a key moment for both the safety, and the composure of the leader. In normal mode, the Mega Jul allows the belayer to throw as much rope as quickly as the leader needs it, with the fluid ease of a tube-style device. If the leader should come off, however, the Mega Jul's unique design automatically checks the fall the way you'd expect a spring-loaded, or auto-locking device to. Finally, it's the Edelrid solution to the age-old conundrum: it's no longer necessary to bring an auto-assist device for belaying, and another, tube-style, for descending--just the Mega Jul.
In normal mode, belay a leader with all the benefits of a tube-style device, but with the security of an auto-locking device. The Mega Jul will auto-lock, too, when providing a sling-shot, top-rope belay.
In plaquette, or guide mode, bring up a second--or, a third--belaying directly off the anchor by reorienting the device.
Flip the device into tube-mode to enjoy the same, unrestricted rope control you'd expect in a belay plate, or tube.
When used in tube-mode, the Mega Jul behaves like any other plate or tube-style device; the climber must maintain control of one--or both--brake strands. Though it's never a bad idea to take other precautions, too--like knotting the end(s) of the rope--when rappelling in normal mode, whether descending double-stranded or single, the Mega Jul functions as an auto-block, backing up the system in case of loss of control, or an unexpected need to go hands-free.
Things to keep in mind:
The Mega Jul is made of steel, which is a bit harder than aluminum, and with heavy, frequent use, the device will score the rod stock of your HMS belay carabiner. The marks are merely cosmetic, and are the result of the interaction between the two dissimilar metals.
Though the Mega Jul's rope diameter tolerance, according to Edelrid, includes ropes up to 10.5 millimeters, the functional range--in my own experience--seems slightly smaller. For the best results, try to pair the Mega Jul with ropes <9.8-10.0mm.
All belay devices have their nuances; anytime I upgrade to new hardware, I not only take my time in mastering its use, but I also try and familiarize my partners with its proper handling. The Mega Jul's a game-changer, both in terms of safety and versatility; everyone ought to know how to use one!
Date published: 2014-04-03
Rated 5 out of
kelly cordes from
Does everythingI've long been a fan of auto-blocking belay devices like the ATC-Guide and Reverso for belaying the follower on multi-pitch routes. Likewise, auto-locking styles like the Gri-Gri are great for belaying a leader �?? but for long routes they're heavy, and only feed a single strand, making rappels tricky (do-able, but requires some shenanigans).
Last summer I got the Mega Jul as a gift, and love it. It's superlight, and the simple design is brilliant �?? it basically does the same as an ATC, ATC-Guide, and Gri-Gri all in one. It's still essential to keep hold of the brake strand when belaying a leader, just in case, and pairing it with the right size/type of 'biner makes a big difference in how smoothly it works. A unique feature �?? probably my favorite �?? is that you can do normal rappels (two ropes, no shenanigans) with it in locking mode. Takes some practice to rap smoothly, but key is that it locks if you let go of the rope �?? a built-in backup for the sketchiest part of climbing.
The Mega Jul's versatility means it isn't idiot-proof �?? the fact that it does all of those things could be slightly confusing at first. So, maybe not ideal for beginners. For example, in one configuration it will automatically lock, but in another it won't. Obviously important to know the difference. Fortunately, it ain't rocket surgery. As with any tool, you need to learn how to use it. But once you do, it's an incredibly versatile and safe belay/rappel device.
Date published: 2014-03-26
Rated 5 out of
SOLD!After six months of solid use on my MegaJul I can honestly say that this is one of the most progressive pieces of new climbing gear in some time. In alpine situations or on long climbs this device eliminates the need of carrying a grigri for auto-locking/brake assist belays and the belayer can pay out slack easily with the thumb loop. Just like other auto locking devices without the weight.
I have found this device extremely useful when rappel bolting or cleaning as the MegaJul can lock HANDS FREE on rappel as well (no more wrapping the rope around your leg to work hands free).
The device raises questions at first sight with how thin the build is, but I assure you that after six months of lots of climbing and plenty of abuse that the stainless steel has not worn even a bit.
When using in "guide mode" I recommend using a nice fat round carabiner for locking the rope into the device, this will cut down on the friction when taking up slack and make for a smoother belay.
All things considered I think the days of carrying a heavy auto-locking device on your hip are over.
Date published: 2014-03-21
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