If you're looking to ski mainly on trails, groomed tracks and moderate terrain, then general touring ski gear is for you. This equipment is designed primarily for the classic, forward kick-and-glide technique. It's a bit heavier than skate gear, but not as heavy (nor as supportive) as backcountry equipment.
No longer can you select the right cross-country ski length by simply raising your arm and measuring to your wrist. Body weight is much more the determining factor in ski selection, along with skiing ability and terrain.
Waxable skis typically outperform nonwax models when they're prepared and cared for correctly. However, many recreational skiers prefer the ease of use of nonwax skis.
Make sure the boots you buy fit comfortably and hold your feet solidly in place. They must also be compatible with your bindings.
Touring Skis
Length Over the past decade, skis have been getting gradually shorter, thanks to new technology and design. No longer can you select the right length by simply raising your arm and measuring to your wrist. Body weight is much more the determining factor in ski selection, although skiing ability and terrain are also taken into consideration. Check the manufacturer's suggested sizing based on user weight or ask your sales associate for assistance in choosing the right pair.
Width Skis are measured across the "waist," or narrowest point. Skis for general touring are relatively narrow, making them perfect for striding in groomed tracks and on hard-packed trails. Narrow skis produce less drag than wide ones, so they help you glide faster, cover more ground and use less energy.
Wide striding skis have more surface area, which translates to greater flotation in soft snow. This extra flotation is useful for touring outside of established ski trails, especially if you're carrying a pack. Wider skis also provide a more stable platform, which makes them easier to balance on when striding in variable snow conditions.
Sidecut Sidecut refers to the long, inward curves on both sides of a ski. It's designated by three numbers: the widths, in millimeters, of the ski's tip, waist and tail. A greater difference in these numbers will mean a larger sidecut. Sidecut helps you keep more of a ski's edge in contact with the snow when you turn it, so carving turns is easier. General touring skis have relatively little sidecut, since the need for carving turns is unlikely in groomed tracks or on gentle, hard-packed trails. If you want to go off trail occasionally where you're likely to encounter hills, trees and other obstacles, look for skis with moderate sidecut to facilitate easier turning.
Camber General touring skis have cross-country camber, the pronounced arch in the center that is held up off the surface of the snow, and which must be weighted for the ski to get traction. This type of camber is necessary for performing the classic kick-and-glide technique.
Flex The flex (or "stiffness") of a ski affects how well it grips the snow when you put your weight on it and how well it rides through different types of snow. Stiff-flexed skis have a very efficient glide, which makes them perfect for groomed tracks and hard-packed trails. Most stiff-flex striding skis designed for in-track use have flexible, curved tips to help skiers stay in pre-made ski tracks.
Waxable vs. "Nonwax" Skis You can enjoy general touring on waxable or nonwax skis. Many recreational skiers prefer nonwax models because they're easier to care for. Waxable skis, on the other hand, typically outperform non-wax models when they're prepared and cared for correctly. Waxable skis are the choice of most weekend racers and serious cross-country enthusiasts who don't mind the extra effort involved in preparation and maintenance.
Keep in mind when choosing between wax and nonwax skis that waxing skis properly can be difficult, especially in highly variable temperatures or in temperatures at or near the freezing level. In regions like the Pacific Northwest where such conditions are common, non-wax skis are usually the smarter choice for everyone but the most serious racers.
Engineered Compact Skis Engineered compact skis are a relatively new style of classic striding ski that performs like traditional-length models, yet are significantly shorter and easier to handle. This decrease in length can translate into a quicker learning curve for beginners and more fun out on the trails for anyone looking to try something new. These skis tend to be wider and have more sidecut than traditional striding skis as a result of the unique construction techniques used to build them. These features make engineered compact skis perfect for occasional backcountry exploration.
Poles
For In-Track Striding Skiing on groomed, maintained ski trails requires strong, lightweight poles that reach from the ground up to your armpits or slightly higher. Make sure they have a comfortable, adjustable strap assembly that allows for a full range of poling motion. Since in-track striding typically involves packed, groomed snow, your pole baskets (which give you purchase and keep your pole tips from digging too deeply into the snow) can be relatively small.
For Off-Track Striding If your skiing plans include occasional touring outside of groomed ski areas, look for slightly larger pole baskets to provide better purchase in deeper, softer snows. You may also want to consider multiple-piece, telescoping poles that will allow you to shorten both poles to climb uphill comfortably, lengthen both poles for descents, or shorten one pole and lengthen the other for traversing slopes.
Touring Bindings
There are two types of bindings typically used on all-around touring skis:
New Nordic Norm (NNN) "New Nordic Norm" is a name given to a modern boot binding connection system that competes with traditional three-pin systems. NNN systems consist of a short, metal rod mounted in the toe of the ski boot sole, which clips into a matching ski binding somewhat like a door hinge. NNN bindings feature raised ridges on the ski's surface, which fit into matching grooves in the soles of compatible ski boots. This connection between boot and binding provides better overall ski control than three-pin systems. NNN boot/binding systems are known for their comfortable flex, efficient ski control and solid design.
Salomon Nordic System (SNS) SNS is Salomon's proprietary boot/binding system. It uses a boot/binding connection system similar to the NNN system, but instead of having two raised binding ridges and two matching sole groves (like NNN systems), Salomon systems feature a single, wide binding ridge and a single matching sole groove. Because of this difference in design, SNS boots/bindings and NNN boots/bindings are not compatible.
For skiing on relatively flat terrain, especially in the groomed tracks of a maintained ski area, system bindings like NNN and SNS are perfect. They're narrow (so they fit inside narrow ski tracks), lightweight (so you don't waste energy), and they provide a comfortable connection point between your boots and skis. Because they are wider, three-pin bindings can be slightly cumbersome when used in groomed tracks. They're fine for use on trails, though, and are still popular among beginners and recreational striding skiers because of their affordability.
Touring Boots
Comfort is always the key to successful ski boot buying. Make sure the ski boots you buy fit comfortably and hold your feet solidly in place. Also make sure they match your bindings!
For In-Track Striding For skiing mostly on groomed ski trails, think running shoes, not hiking boots. In-track ski boots should be comfortable, flexible and lightweight.
For Off-Track Striding For occasional off-track touring or striding on hard-packed trails and roads, you'll need boots that can handle occasional edging, turning and stopping in more variable snow conditions. Stick with lightweight boots (remember—you still want to maximize efficient forward glide), but opt for a little more ankle support and torsional rigidity. Some boots have extra features such as lace covers and rings for attaching gaiters. These can be especially helpful for keeping snow out of the boots when you're skiing off track.
Grip Waxing Your Cross-Country Skis
Unless your classic striding skis are "waxless" (embossed to prevent slippage), you'll need to wax the center third for grip. Waxes are divided into hard waxes for fresh, crystalline snow and klisters for old, rounded snow. Notes Dik Lang, REI Seattle's ski shop master tech, "In Wyoming, they say, 'When it's time to use Klister, it's time to go fishing.' But others maintain that it's the best kind of wax, since you can go lightning fast and bite into sheer ice." Here's how to get the job done quickly and easily.
Grip waxes come in several forms: "hard" waxes, which resemble a stubby crayon, and "klister" waxes, which are glue-like and come in tubes. Your choice will largely depend on your estimate of the temperature and snow conditions when you next go skiing.
Hard waxes are the most popular choice. They work best when temperatures are cold and snow crystals are sharp. Most are color-coded according to their optimal temperature range (from approximately -25°F to +35°F).
Klister waxes are for warmer conditions and/or on snow that has repeatedly melted and refrozen. Their gelatinous nature and stickiness makes them a bit tougher to work with.
Spray waxes offer a quick parking-lot fix for your skis.
Prepare the Kick Zone
The kick zone is the middle third of the ski, approximately 70cm from the heel of the binding forward. For a stronger kick, you can increase the length of the zone further forward by a few more centimeters.
Mark the front and back of your kick zone with a thin strip of masking tape.
Scrape the area with a plastic scraper and apply a small amount of base cleaner with a cloth to remove dirt and old wax.
Rub the area in both directions with a very fine grade of sandpaper-wrapped cork.
Apply the Wax
These techniques describe the waxing you'll want to do throughout the ski season. A complete preseason ski overhaul goes beyond the scope of this article.
Binder Wax (optional)
For coarse snow, you can apply a binder wax before the hard wax so your wax won't get scraped off as easily. Rub the binder wax onto the kick zone, moving backwards and forwards on either side of the groove. Heat your waxing iron to 110°F and melt the wax onto the ski. Let it cool (about 30 minutes) then cork.
Hard Wax
Working at room temperature, hold the ski at a 30° angle or prop it up on a bench if you can. Next, rub hard grip wax on the kick zone using short back and forth strokes. Rub a cork over ("cork") the area, apply another coat of wax and buff again. You can apply one or more coats, making sure to buff the surface smooth each time.
Klister Wax
Rub the kick zone with a sandpaper cork. Apply base (green) klister in diagonal strips on either side of the groove. Warm and smooth it onto the ski with a waxing iron at 110°F. Let it cool and cork the area. Next, apply a universal or temperature-specific klister in the same pattern. Spread it out with a plastic scraper or a cork.
Spray Wax
Distribute an even layer from the front to the back of the kick zone. Use one spray stroke. Do not cork.
Test It Out
Go Skiing!
Bring your wax and cork. Hit the track for 100 feet or so and evaluate ski performance.
If you're slipping, the wax is too hard. Scrape it off with a plastic scraper and apply a softer wax.
If you're gripping too much and snow is building up on the bottom of your ski, scrape off the soft wax and apply a harder wax.
Helpful Tips
Make sure your ski bases are completely clean and dry before waxing.
Waxing is easiest at room temperature. If you're just coming in from outside, give them a chance to warm before waxing.
Choose two or three grip waxes that cover the range of temperatures you're likely to ski, and stick with them until you're familiar with each.
Optionally, for performance across a range of temperatures, consider a universal wax.
Contributors: Dik Lang, REI Seattle Master Ski Tech; Susan Schnier, snow sports writer
Last updated: October 2007.
Send This to a Friend
Thank you! Your message has been sent. Send another?
Sorry, there was an error sending your mail. Please try again.
