How to Choose a Snowboard

Born to surf deep powder snow, snowboards have morphed into supremely versatile winter adventure tools. You'll find them sliding rails at the snow park, ripping descents through fields of pristine powder, carving corduroy at eye-watering speeds or tackling technical lines on the high peaks of the Himalaya.

Part of the beauty of the board is the relatively short learning curve. Normally, two to three days is all it takes for a new snowboarder to experience that "ah hah!" moment when you gain a sense of stability and make fun turns. Snowboards are unsurpassed for stability and their ability to float through challenging snow. Their expansive platforms are ideal for enjoying deep snow and wet spring corn. So get on board, get in the fall line and get ready to grin.

Board Types Explained

How to Choose Board Lengths

Quick Read
Getting Started
Your Rider Profile
Types of Boards
Snowboard Size and Design
And Don't Forget

Quick Read

• Honestly assess your abilities, budget and likely riding areas before shopping.
• Consider the type of riding you want to do: terrain park, halfpipe, powder, groomers or a little bit of everything.
• Once you've chosen a board, use the height test to pick the right length.
• If you have big feet, look for a wider board to prevent toe drag.

Getting Started

It may seem like a daunting task sorting through all of the gear out there. To make it easier, take a little time now to think about what you ultimately want to do with your board, where you board and how much you want to spend.

Shopping for a Board

REI's entire snowboard selection can be purchased online. However, you should consider visiting a retail store whenever possible. Here, you can actually see, feel and try on the boards, boots and bindings you are considering. You can also talk live with salespeople who are passionate about the gear. Another option is to go to one of the many demos organized by ski resorts, manufacturers' sales reps and retailers.

Know Thyself

Think realistically about what type of riding you will be doing and where. You gotta be brutally honest. We all dream of getting dropped by helicopter for multi-thousand-foot rooster-tail runs in Alaska. But the reality is that most of us spend the bulk of our days at our local resort—riding on firmer snow.

Most riders also like to sample a variety of types of riding and terrain, so the best choice is often a versatile, all-mountain board rather than a specialized design. This is especially true if you are just getting into the sport and are not sure which direction you want to go ... literally and figuratively.

Know Your Budget

Shelling out your hard-earned cash certainly can be a buzz-kill. Snowboarding, however, won't necessarily break the bank as a good, high-performance recreational setup (board, boots and bindings) that lasts many winters can be had for around $700.

Compared to many winter sports, such as ice climbing, snowboarding is relatively low-cost. You may be tempted by premium boards with the latest technologies and materials. However, keep in mind that, on snow, the performance differences between high-priced boards and less expensive models often can be detected by only the most discriminating expert riders.

Your Rider Profile

Experienced boarders have a good feel for their abilities and preferences. If you're new to the sport, keep in mind that most people get two to three years out of their first board. Because of this, it's natural to want to "buy up," thinking ahead to when you'll be more proficient in order to save some money. Beware. Advanced boards are much stiffer and less forgiving. Translation? They'll work you over if you don't have the requisite control or fitness. Nothing can turn you off quicker to the sport than getting hammered by your board—other than getting hammered in front of your posse!

Riders fall into three basic skill groups:

Recreational

You're trying out the sport for the first time. Or you've boarded roughly ten to 20 times and have mastered the rudiments of the sport, but you know you'll only get out a few times each year. This category of rider is still gaining a feel for what is possible in the world of snowboarding.

Intermediate

Definitely bitten by the bug, you have advanced well past the basics, get out at least ten to 20 times a year and can stay upright on most terrain—and have fun doing so. While you're most likely very strong carving groomers, pulling basic tricks in the park and pipe, and riding through fresh powder, you still spend most of your time inbounds and are tentative on very technical terrain, steep terrain and the most difficult jibbing.

Advanced/Expert

Two words: complete addiction! You know who you are. You've probably been riding for years and are confident on all types of terrain and all types of snow conditions. You have sampled the spectrum of boarding, from pipes to peaks, and may own several boards suited to different types of riding. This category also includes backcountry riders. The backcountry offers far different experiences than the resort scene due to the additional skills, fitness, tools and knowledge required for safe riding in such an unpredictable and potentially hazardous place.

Types of Boards

Snowboards fall into three main categories based upon the intended type of riding and terrain, plus lots of specialized subcategories. These groupings are not etched in stone, as there are more and more models on the market that blur the boundaries.

All-Mountain

These boards are at home everywhere on the mountain, from high alpine bowls full of powder to shots through the trees, from jibbing to logging air time in the halfpipe. Highly popular, they are obviously a bit of a compromise since a jack-of-all-trades board will not excel in any one particular category. All-mountain boards tend to have a softer flex than freeride boards making them more forgiving and better for tricks. They are directional boards: Most have a directional shape, but all have a directional flex pattern. (Read more about twin-tip and directional boards.)

Freeride

Expert and heavier male riders prefer stiffer, longer boards and those with a more aggressive geometry (shape) for all-purpose riding—even deep powder. These attributes give rock-solid stability and dampness for high-speed cruising on hardpack and quicker edge-to-edge performance for control on technical terrain. Not meant for the park or pipe, these boards love backcountry descents off peaks and blistering top-to-bottom resort runs in all conditions. These are directional boards.

Freestyle

With the ever-growing popularity of park riding—as opposed to halfpipe riding—freestyle boards are now subcategorized into two sliding tools. Pipe boards and their cousins, the park board, are similar in overall shape and soft flex. Both types are classic twin-tipped boards.

• Pipe boards need sharp, purposeful edges for working the steep, hard walls of a pipe and maintaining grip on the often ice-hard "snow" found in most halfpipes. Sharp edges allow them to perform reasonably well when out and about elsewhere at the resort. Pipe boards are true twin-tip boards. (Read more about twin-tip and directional boards.)
• Park boards reflect the popularity of jibbing and flatland trick riding. Park boards feature the dulled, less-aggressive metal edges necessary for sliding across non-snow surfaces like rails and tree trunks. The sharper the edge, the more likely you're going to snag an edge and end up sprawled out across the snow. However, these decks have the most durable bases and edges to withstand the abuse of the park's rails and tabletops. These are the softest of all boards, the shortest and the most maneuverable.

Specialized Boards

Powder Boards: While all snowboards excel in deep snow compared to skis, there are a few styles dedicated to riding in fresh, deep, unconsolidated snow. Also known as tapered boards, their defining characteristic is an extra wide directional tip and exceptional floatation. This added girth allows them to bob joyously through deep piles of big frosty flakes.

Split Boards: These backcountry-specific boards cleverly split into a left and right half. Special, movable bindings allow you to easily tour, or "cross country ski", alongside your telemark and alpine touring (AT) buddies to access the most remote powder, peaks and huts.

Wide Boards: These expansive boards are extra wide from edge-to-edge for riders with large feet or those who covet an even larger footprint for enhanced floatation in powder. (Read more about snowboard width here.)

Carving Boards: Rapidly receding in popularity the past few years, carving boards were envisioned as tools for maximum-speed carving on groomed runs—similar to downhill racing skis in the ski world. Carving boards are normally used in conjunction with "hard boots" and plate bindings. Still popular in Europe, they are available in limited numbers here in the US and are not sold through REI.

Women's Boards: Not just boy boards painted pink, women's boards are built with specific constructions, dimensions and flex patterns sized for women. They are offered in the same basic flavors as male/unisex boards. Keep in mind that tall women can often choose between unisex boards and women's models.

Kids' Boards: Kids grow fast, but as a parent, don't be tempted to buy an adult board hoping your grom will grow into it. An oversized board can be unmanageable for your child and actually slow their development as a snowboarder.

Snowboard Size and Design

Here are the most common decisions you'll encounter when shopping for a snowboard. Getting familiar with them will help you to understand snowboards and communicate your needs when talking to a sales associate.

Length

Board length is usually based on your height and your type of riding. A few manufacturers are now listing weight recommendations as another tool to figure out the best board length for you. These are general guidelines that are best discussed with a knowing sales associate. The current "height method" looks like this:

• Shorter boards (between your chin and the bottom of your nose) are more maneuverable and easier to manage in the pipe and park. They work well for recreational riders, but are not as stable at speed in deep snow or on hard snow and ice.
• Taller boards (from your nose to your eyes) are faster, more stable and offer better flotation than a shorter board. They are best for intermediate to advanced riders in a variety of terrain and snow.

Width

The width of a board starts to become critical for riders with feet size 10.5 or larger. If that's you, then be aware that "toe drag" can become a problem. This is where your toes overhang the edge of the board and drag along the snow, negatively affecting performance and speed. To solve this, you should consider a wider-than-normal board. You will also want extra width if you're shopping for a powder-specific board, as width supplies needed flotation in deep pow.

Twin or Directional Tips?

One of the most important aspects of board design revolves around the tips (or ends). There are two main designs, each excelling at a different type of riding.

• Twin tipped boards have seen a resurgence due to the fast-rising popularity of park and flatland trick riding. In a true twin, one tip mirrors the other while the board's overall personality is soft and forgiving. Since there is no leading end or tip, they are equally adept going in either direction, forwards or backwards. In a directional twin, the board's shape is still symmetrical but the flex pattern is not—it borrows characteristics of a directionally tipped board.
• Directionally tipped all-mountain and freeride boards are asymmetric: One tip is more robust and rigid. Though both tips look about the same, the stiffer end is the front, or leading, tip of the board. It is the one you drive down into the fall for normal riding.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut refers to the width difference between the widest part of the board (at each end) and the narrowest part (in the center). The latter is called the waist. The greater the difference, or the more hourglass-shaped the board, the quicker it will bite into the snow and the better it will carve. Some riders prefer the quickness of a large sidecut radius. Others, especially riders just starting out, find deep sidecuts to be overly quick, unforgiving and tiring. Straighter cut boards are more forgiving, predictable and deliver better floatation. They also have a less "hooky" feels in powder and crud.

Flex

If you stand a board on its end and push on the center bending it into an arc, you get a feel for the flex of the board. Flex is probably overemphasized when shopping for boards, and there are many subtle variations in flex between manufacturers and models. Don't get too hung up on the flex pattern of your board. Some general thoughts:

• Soft boards are those with a nice round arc and are easy to bend into an arc. Generally more forgiving, they are best for jibbing in the park and for powder riding. For powder riding, this allows the leading tip to rise and float through the powder, rather than dive.
• Stiff boards require some muscle to bend into an arc. Stiff boards are more stable at redline speeds and, since they transmit your body's energy quickly to your board, they are faster onto an edge and are more precise once there. This is exactly what experts and freeriders demand.

Effective Edge

Your board's edge features a metal strip running around the perimeter of the base. This edge bites into the snow and provides control and steering. The effective edge is the section that actually touches the snow or ice throughout your descent. The longer this edge, the greater stability there is at high speeds and the more the edges will grip in turns. The shorter the effective edge, the easier it is to initiate turns and spins.

Edges need to be routinely tuned (i.e., made sharp) for maximum grip and confidence on groomers and in the pipe. Deliberately dulled edges are best for park riding. MagneTraction is a Gnu & Lib-Tech edge design that is wavy, somewhat like a serrated knife, rather than having one clean arc from tip to tail. This new design is gaining a following as it allows you to run cleanly up and down the sidewalls of a halfpipe while still excelling at park riding and flatland tricks.

Stance/Positioning

Take a look at our Snowboard Bindings article for proper positioning of your bindings and how your stance affects performance.

Graphics and Colors

The color and graphics of your board serve no functional purpose for general riding. High-visibility colors can serve a safety function in the backcountry if you become lost and someone is searching for you from the air.

Board Construction

The two most common types of construction are caps and sidewalls.

• Cap construction boards have sidewalls and a top sheet formed from the exact same piece of materials. Cap boards are easy to manufacture. Some builders feel that a capped board more efficiently transmits energy to the board's edges. Other manufacturers feel that a sidewall build does.
• Sidewall construction boards have a base, topsheet and sidewalls made of individual pieces. These components are laminated together into a box around the core. Sidewall-constructed boards tend to produce damp boards and boards that are easy to repair if the edge or sidewall is damaged.

Core Materials

Wood is the material of choice for virtually all boards. It is long lasting, lively and proven. Wooden boards can be selectively reinforced with fiberglass, carbon fiber or metals to improve or enhance specific performance characteristics. Some economically priced snowboards use synthetic materials rather than wood, while select high-end boards use high-tech cores such as honeycombed metal.

Base Material

There are two common types of bases, both made from polyethylene.

• Sintered bases feature polyethylene powder heated to the point that all the particles melt together. This is done in a mold to form the base sheet. More expensive, this type of base is also much more porous. This porosity helps it to hold its base wax, or running wax, for a longer period of time. It is also the fastest base and highly durable.
• Extruded bases are made by forcing the base material through a form, or die (like making spaghetti). This type of base is normally found on less expensive boards and is the easier of the two to repair if damaged.

And Don't Forget

Helmets: Wear a helmet, we insist. The reasons are obvious, and we highly recommend them. Tree trunks and rocks are vastly more resistant to blunt trauma than your skull. Helmets provide a nice refuge of warmth on bitter cold days too—much more so than a stocking cap.

Wrist, Butt & Hip Guards: Fluffy white snow can quickly become bruising once it gets groomed, skied over or pressed into a halfpipe. Do your skeleton and glutei muscles a favor by riding with wrist guards and hip/butt guards, especially if you are just learning how to ride. Mountain biking or roller blade wrist guards are OK for riding a snowboard, too.

Board Lock: You could be in for a heartbreak if you leave your board unattended and unlocked. A good lock is cheap insurance and is easy to carry in the pockets of your pants or shell.

Board Tools: Most of us do not carry tools when resort riding, since most areas now provide benches and a limited selection of the most useful tools. Still, a ratcheting binding buddy or boarding specific multitool is always a welcome addition to any rider's kit.

Waxing: Boards come tuned and waxed off the retail rack. Factory wax jobs last roughly four to six days of riding. Keep your board waxed (and tuned) so you can slide happily and effortlessly throughout the season, as a waxed board is noticeably faster across the snow. Bear in mind that there are different waxes for the cold, crisp snows of winter and the wetter slop of spring. Do-it-yourselfers will need around $50 worth of tools to accomplish this. Otherwise, an experienced shop such as REI can do it for a nominal charge.

Backcountry Safety Tools: If you plan on heading into the backcountry, even if just out through a gate for some nearby powder turns before returning back to the resort, you need to be equipped with the basics for companion search-and-rescue. Check out our Expert Advice discussion on transceivers and backcountry travel.

Last updated: November 2007.