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Item 750706
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REVIEW SNAPSHOT®
by PowerReviewsPros
Cons
Best Uses
REVIEWS
Reviewed by 14 customers
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Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
I go through 2-3 ropes per year and I've been climbing about 10 years. I like ropes that can do it all from long trad routes to 5.13 sport climbs. This rope has the worst handling I've ever felt. It's so stiff that when you climb above your pro it remains bent and won't even go through the carabiner. What's worse is the sheath began fuzzing (badly) after only two weekend of climbing at Rifle. This diameter is hard to control with a grigri while you're lowering someone as well. I'd say that petzl tried to shrink the diameter of this rope while still maintaining the strength of the sheath and ended up with a cordy, inflexible rope. I've climbed on the 9.7 and it's slightly better but still doesn't handle well either. I won't be getting another petzl rope anytime soon.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
Bought it as a trail line for long multi-pitch. The first rappel it took a core shot, but luckily it was within the 10m mark so I turned an expensive 70m into 60m the first day. This did not happen over a sharp edge, but slab. All the weight was removed in the sheath and it showed. It is rigid, rough, and not fun to catch a fall. Climbed on it a few times, but mostly trailed and rappel and now has lots of fuzz. It is light, but not worth the hefty $.
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Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
Since there's one poor review I'm compelled to comment: You won't find a better rope for in-a-day ascents of the Captain. It's not a sport climbing rope, but if 30 pitches in a day is your thing, this is a great rope.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
I got this rope for all around mountaineering and alpine use. The first trip I took the rope on was a trip to the bugs. Straight out of the bag the rope started to kink and twist a ton and had huge problems with it doing this ever since. I haven't noticed the durability issues that others have notice but I won't be buying another one just based on the handling issues I've had with this one
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
I specifically use this rope for long trad climbs, alpine rock climbs and alpine climbs and guiding all of these disciplines as well. I do NOT use it for everyday sport climbing, jugging on, and overall abrasive uses like that. What I do know is that I have had a 60m 9.4 that has gone on so many multi pitch climbs that I can't believe it is still going. It does have a stiff sheath that handles a bit differently out of the bag - which in the long run I like better than the soft and fuzzy ropes, it just feels like it will last longer. After a few uses it softens a little bit and it definitely works in a gri-gri no problem. Skinny ropes have their uses and avid climbers should have a quiver at their disposal - use the 9.8 for everday cragging abuse, and the 9.4 when weight is a concern!
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
Despite so many other negative reviews, I have found this rope to be amazing overall! I work full-time as a Climbing Guide. I initially got it for alpine rock and ice routes due to the dry treatment, 70m length and the light weight. It has now become mostly a rock rope for long routes (Indian Creek and linking alpine granite pitches). Even after some hard use on rough granite and sandstone, it shows almost no wear. The rope is super durable (especially for a 9.4!), absorbs very little water, knots well, and handles smoothly. I am not sure if some of the other reviewers were using the Gri Gri 2 or the original Gri Gri. The old Gri Gri isn't meant for ropes under 10mm (even though many people use them anyway), and yes Gri Gris do add some twists to your rope (always have, always will). I am purchasing another Fuse for use on ice routes this winter!
Pros
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Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
This has been a great rope for both long trad and sport routes. It's light, soft on the pro and doesn't stretch too much. I just retired my first one, now on my second
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
This petzl rope has it all. The thin and light rope feels amazing while clipping. The rope may seem too skinny, but I have taken it on multiple trips with tons of whippers and it still has not frayed or shown any signs of dead spots.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
The Petzl Fuse is my go-to rope for everything from sport projects to alpine rock routes. Initially, the Fuse feels stiff and the outermost fibers tend to fray quickly. However, it has taken 6-12 months of heavy use and hundreds of falls before I've had to cut the ends. I've used ropes from most companies over the last 20 years, and the Fuse has lasted the longest for its diameter. I highly recommend this rope.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Petzl Fuse 9.4mm x 70m Dry Rope:
I bought this rope for its light weight and the extra 10m which always comes in handy for long rappels. The rope has been used for about 3 months of climbing time, and now it coils to such an extent that it has prevented the belayer from keeping up with the climber which can be a serious problem on challenging climbings where rope needs fed at whatever pace the climber needs. also the coiling is a pain when lowering climbers because the coils get so bad that the rope will not feed through the belay device until all the coils have been removed. this makes the extra length (which is something i like) become a pain. i constantly work to remove the coils but they keep on coming back.
I gave this product 3 starts because it is very nice having a 70m rope with a small diameter; however, the coiling has become such a problem that i will need to replace the rope soon. hopefully it will make it to the end of the season...
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