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OnGuard Pitbull STD U-Lock

OnGuard Pitbull STD U-Lock

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The Pitbull™ STD bike lock uses the toughest steel and a pick-proof lock to protect your ride like a viscious dog.

  • 13mm (0.5 in.) hardened ultra steel shackle provides maximum cut resistance
  • M-Cylinder™ inner locking mechanism delivers legendary pick-proof protection and its key has over 1 million variations
  • Dual Steel Bar™ locking mechanism delivers up to 10 tons of pull-strength
  • Ballistic™ formula plastic is so tough and unbreakable we'd swear it has some kind of Martian technology!
  • Tough vinyl cable cover protects bikes and equipment against scratches
  • Includes 4 laser-cut keys so no sweat if you lose one; also includes 1 Torch Key™ light key for nighttime use

Imported.

Item 721701

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OnGuard Pitbull STD U-Lock Specs
Specification
Description
Best use
Bike commuting & touring
Hardened steel
4.5 x 9 inches
3 pounds
3 pounds
Material(s)
Dimensions
Weight
Average weight

OnGuard Pitbull STD U-Lock Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
OnGuard Pitbull Standard STD U-Lock
 
3.0

(based on 1 review)

REVIEWS

Reviewed by 1 customer

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(10 of 11 customers found this review helpful)

 
3.0

Strong heavy big lock, [*] lock mount

By Kublai

from Denver

About Me Avid Cyclist

See all my reviews

Site Member

Pros

  • Seems strong
  • Smooth lock mechanism

Cons

  • Difficult to mount
  • Hard to Carry

Best Uses

  • Road Bikes

Comments about OnGuard Pitbull Standard STD U-Lock:

Nice big heavy lock. The shackle is long enough to make locking the bike to fenceposts or whatnot relatively easy. On the other hand, that length leaves open space inside the shackle, making it easier for thieves to apply leverage.

The mount which is intended to let you carry the lock on the bike is pretty bad. It consists of the mount itself, plus a nylon strap that you tighten around the frame tube by turning a bolt that winds up the strap. The bolt has a ratchets that keeps it from loosening.

The mount is actually pretty flexible. The nylon strap can reach around pretty much any size frame tube, large or small. The lock has a flange that slides into a slot on the mount, and the slot is on a separate assembly, which can be removed by unscrewing four screws, and rotated to any of four directions. So you could mount the lock in line with a tube, or 90 degrees to it.

Further, the lock flange is molded into a collar mounted around the shackle, and which can be rotated by untightening a small hex bolt. That gives you the option of mounting the lock out of line with the plane of the frame.

So there are lots of different ways you can mount the lock on the bike. The directions suggest several, but there are more. I tried all of them.

Unfortunately, you cannot try a position by merely holding the lock next to the frame. You have to go through the full rigamarole of mounting it. That requires tightening all four screws, tightening the strap, then inserting the lock and seeing if it fits. Further, the strap tension is held by a ratchet, and there is no way to release the ratchet; you just have to force the bolt to turn against the ratchet, probably weakening it. Lastly, the mount and strap are both slippery (the strap has rubber threads woven into it, but they have no effect), so they include a loose thin piece of rubber you are supposed to place between the mount and the frame. It is a fiddly piece of work to hold the mount in place, keep the loose piece of rubber from falling out, and tighten the strap all at the same time.

I did that entire thing perhaps seven times, and each time, the lock interfered with my pedaling. I finally found a place on one of the down tubes (which run diagonally from the seatpost to the rear hub). The lock extended backwards, out of the way.

Unfortunately, in my first day of riding with the lock mounted, the mount rotated around the tube, so that the lock shackle contacted the rear wheel spokes. Repeatedly tightening the strap did little to help, and once the lock swung right into the wheel, stopping it dead and bending a spoke. I dealt with it by aiming the lock outward, away from the wheel, and keeping an eye on it. To really keep mount from rotating around the tube, you would need some different shim material. I was planning to use some high-friction rubber mesh designed to keep thin rugs from sliding.

But it was not to be, because after a six mile city commute, the mount itself broke, so it would no longer hold the lock. Also, I found that the thin rubber had disintegrated, leaving a sticky black smear on my frame. Just as well. I will just carry the (heavy, hard) lock in my messenger bag.

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