How to Choose Hiking Footwear

Select the appropriate boots or shoes based on your planned activity. Mountaineering boots must be much heavier and more substantial than day-hiking boots. Learn about the materials used in hiking footwear. Do you need heavy, waterproof materials or lighter-weight, breathable ones? Consider how boot construction will affect your activity. Get your feet measured properly and then try on the boots with the appropriate socks. Take a test walk on a flat surface and then an incline and check for any slippage or discomfort.

• Lightweight hiking—These boots (and trail shoes) are designed for day hiking and very short overnight trips only. They stress comfort, cushioning and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than the options below.
  
  
• Midweight hiking/backpacking—These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate backpacking loads. They are more durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
  
  
• Extended backpacking/mountaineering—These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. They are designed with multi-day trips in mind. Durable and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Some are stiff enough to accept crampons for snow/ice travel.

• Nylon mesh and split-grain leather—Nylon and split-grain leather boots are lightweight and breathable, which makes them perfect for warm to moderate weather use and short to moderate backpacking trips. They tend to be softer on your feet, they take less time to break in, and they are almost always lighter than full-grain leather boots. They also cost less. Unfortunately, nylon/split-grain boots tend to be less water resistant than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be just as watertight, if not more so).
• Full-grain leather—Full-grain leather is extremely water resistant, durable and supportive (more so than split-grain leather or nylon). It's used primarily in backpacking boots designed for extended trips, heavy loads and hard terrain. Not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations, but it typically lasts far longer. Full-grain leather usually requires a break-in period.
• Waterproof barriers—Lightweight, waterproof barriers (like Gore-Tex®) are built into many hiking boots to enhance their water resistance. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to extended backpacking models. Waterproof performance depends upon the type of barrier used, the materials protecting it and how well the boots are taken care of. If cared for correctly, these waterproof barriers often last longer than the boots themselves.

• Waterproof leather—This is leather that's been treated to be waterproof. It's great stuff to have, but remember —leaks may still occur, if the boot pieces are not put together well.
• Waterproof (or watertight) construction—This refers to construction techniques designed to keep leaks out (like seam-sealing, special stitches and precise designs). Water-tight construction is typically combined with waterproofed materials.
• Waterproof liners—These are the special waterproof barriers described above that are built right into the boot to protect you from whatever leaks make it through the boot materials. These liners typically do a great job of keeping you dry. But remember, Gore-Tex and others waterproof liners don't last forever.

• Stitching—Durable, reliable, can be undone to replace the sole once it has worn down. Different techniques (Littleway, Norwegian) result in different strengths and stiffnesses.
• Cementing—Faster and less expensive than stitching, resulting in lower boot prices. It hasn't always been reliable, but most modern methods produce durable, lost-lasting bonds (depending upon the process and specific glue used). Most cemented boots can now be resoled just like traditional stitch-down models.

Breaking in your Hiking Boots

• Begin by wearing your boots for short periods of time inside the house. Wear the kinds of socks you're likely to be wearing out on the trail. Lace your boots up tight, and make sure your tongues are lined up and the gusset material is folded flat. The creases you form as you break-in your boots will likely remain for the life of the boot.
  
  
• Your new boots will be a little stiff at first, which is fine. But if you notice significant pinching, rubbing or pain right off the bat, you may want to take the boots back and try a different style.
  
  
• If after several short indoor sessions your boots seem to fit comfortably, expand your horizons. Wear your new boots to the local store, around town or while working in the yard. Gradually increase the amount of time you spend in your boots and the distances you cover. Make sure your boots feel good at each stage before increasing your distance.
  
  NOTE: Make sure your new boots fit comfortably before you can wear them outside!
  
  
• Be vigilant throughout the break-in process for any pain or discomfort. As soon as you notice either, take the boots off. Remember -- small problems can become big ones very quickly. If everything feels good, try adding a little weight on your back as you hike, and/or hiking on more challenging trails.
  
  
• If your boots feel good throughout the break-in process, but a single pinch or a hot spot remains, you may be able to correct the problem area by visiting a shoe-repair shop or your local REI store. Most have stretching devices that can help alleviate localized boot-fitting problems.

Overnight Backpacking Checklist

The 10+ Essentials
	Extra clothing layer(s)		Map of area (in waterproof case)
	Drinking water		Compass
	Food		Headlamp or flashlight (with extra batteries/ bulbs)
	First-aid kit		Sunglasses (with retaining strap)
	Pocket knife		Sunscreen
	Matches (in waterproof container) and firestarter
Hiking Clothing
	Quick-drying pants/shorts		Fleece jacket or wool sweater
	Short-sleeved shirts		Wicking long underwear (top/bottoms)
	Long-sleeved shirts		Regular underwear
	Warm pants (fleece or wool)		Quick-drying swimsuit
	Fleece or wool vest
Outerwear
	Rainwear (top/bottoms)		Fleece or wool gloves/mittens
	Wide-brimmed rain/sun hat		Waterproof gloves/overmitts
	Warm hat (fleece or wool)		Bandanna
Footwear
	Hiking socks		Extra laces
	Wicking liner socks		Gaiters
	Hiking boots/shoes that match the terrain
Camping Gear
	Backpack		Funnel
	Day/summit pack		Matches/lighter
	Pack cover		Cook set, dishes
	Tent, tarp or bivy sack		Cooking/eating utensils
	Rainfly		Drinking cup
	Tent stakes		Pot grabber
	Footprints		Biodegradable soap
	Tent broom		Pot scrubber/dish towel
	Sleeping bag (in waterproof stuff sack)		Plastic garbage bags
	Compression sack		Resealable plastic bags
	Sleeping pad		Water filter/purifier
	Sit pad or sleeping pad chair kit		Water-purification tablets
	Extra nylon stuff sacks		Water bottle(s)
	Food (adequate supply for your trip)		Collapsible water container
	Stove and fuel		Lantern
Personal Items
	Toilet paper		Lip balm (with sun protection)
	Toothbrush and toothpaste		Insect repellent
	Small bath towel		Head net
	Brush/comb		Trowel
	Other personal toiletry items
Other/Extras
	Altimeter		Repair/sewing kit
	Binoculars		100-foot accessory cord
	Field guides		Axe/saw
	Camera and film		Money
	Notebook and pencil		Photo ID
	Travel games		Camping/fire permits, if needed
	Watch/alarm clock		Fishing license
	Weather radio		Trip Plan (left with a responsible friend)
	Hiking poles