
Made in USA.
Item 767290
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REVIEW SNAPSHOT®
by PowerReviewsPros
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Reviewed by 13 customers
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Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
I've been climbing full time for about 6 years now and was stoked when these new cams were released. I picked up a full set and originally raved about them but have calmed since getting to know their quirks.
The smaller sizes are awesome. I love the Blue and Yellow for sure. They provide great, stable, four cam design in the small sizes (never tried the purple or grey) and I would definitely recommend these two.
The Medium sizes are decent. I think that Orange, Red, and Black are nice but somewhat unnecessary. Those sizes are stable as powercams and also lighter as power cams. That being said, if you like the mastercam design more... then go with them.
The only master cam I would strongly recommend against is the green. At first I bought it excited about it's wiggly stem. I thought this would be nice for a variety of reasons but was unexpectedly proven wrong. I groaned repeatedly when placing this cam because it routinely caused problems. Perhaps mine was faulty, but when I would pull the trigger it would fold the cam sideways into an L shape instead of retracting the cam lobes about 30% of the time.
So, for the most part I would argue they are a nice addition to the cam collection and made by an amazing company (Metolius). The small sizes can't be beat, the middle are decent, just play with the green a bit before you commit!
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are great cams and I prefer certain sizes over others...
To start, I have been using the blue and yellow master cams for a while now. I like the master cam at this small size because they seem a little more stable than the TCU and Power cam.
Once I reach the orange and red sizes I go back to the power cam. I like having four lobes and feel as though these sizes are stable enough without needing the master cam design.
Things get tricky at black and green. I just purchased these two master cams and am very excited about them. The smaller sized master cams are very comparable in flexibility to the power cams. After reaching the larger sizes though it's clear that the elongated single stem proves valuable. You can shake the bigger sizes back and forth and they wiggle nicely, that is not the case for other, stiffer, TCU and Power cam. I'm hoping this will result it long life and minimal walking in placements.
Other than that they are lighter than BD camalots (I have a full set of those) but heavier than the old metolius pieces. The kevlar is great because it doesn't squeak and require lubrication like traditional cams do!
Altogether this is a great piece of gear and I would strongly recommend the:
Blue #1
Yellow #2
Black #5
Green #6
Pros
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are the best small cams on the market. Dubbed as the "alien killer" these have been proven from the granite domes of Yosemite to the soft sandstone of Zion. I use sizes 00-3 and love them. The larger size can become floppy and gunked up if not lubricated properly. Do to their small headwidth these cams will fit where no others will. Four cam units are the way to go.
Pros
Cons
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Fantastic product on so many levels. They're extremely light on a rack which makes them great for multipitch routes, where you start to feel the weight by the latter pitches. Very flexible cams. The small lobes are fantastic when you have narrow placements, and even though they seem a little hairball at first, you learn to trust them after a few falls on them (Gotta love that orange). My only issues with this cam is that for some reason i struggle when it comes to cleaning them moreso then other brands. i find C4's so simple to remove, and sometimes i'm fiddling with these for a few minutes, trying to get em out. and secondly, the trigger is a little stiffer for me then on other brands. While this isn't a huge deal, i love the smoothness of a C4. Overall, durable, flexible, reliable. I would recommend trying out a friends if you can before buying them, just to make sure they suit you.
Pros
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are good in the smaller sizes (up to a 2) but I've found after just a few months of use they start to bind up pretty good in the 3-6 sizes. Lubing them helps but you have to do it a lot and the binding I think is more due to a floppy stem. There's nothing more frustrating than being a little pumped and not being able to squeeze the cam down easily and get it placed. They can get really stiff to retract!
I was not that impressed since there are better single stem options out there.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Great Cams - I use the #0 - #2 sizes and go to Black Diamond Camalots for the larger sizes. I really like them and am considering getting doubles and getting up to the #4. I've read some reviews where people prefer them over Camalots up to a Red Camalot! I don't use TCUs any more now that I have these!
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Nice cams. I still prefer the powercams though because of their ability to place in narrow unique spots. I also wish the stem and trigger was longer on these. They are a bit harder to clean than the Black Diamond C4's with longer stems.
They do however place extremely well and are bomber when placed correctly.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
the first master cam i bought was the #2 since the #2 tcu was a favorite part of my alpine rack. i was hoping the small amount of extra weight would be made up for with the stability of a 4 lobed cam.
when i first got the cam home and compared it to my other cams i was a little scared because of the narrow cam lobes.
the first time i placed the piece i was excited with how solid it felt. but the small lobes still freaked me out a bit. anyway, to make a long story short, i've taken a few falls on mastercams and i love them. they are lightweight, study and hold falls well.
i'd recommend these for free climbing over a tcu. yes, the tcu a bit lighter, but i thing the benefits far outweigh the small weight increase.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Direct comparison to aliens without the bad reputation. I have 0-4 and use them all the time. 4 is about the same size as a .75 c4 but a bit narrower in the head. Couldnt be happier with these cams!
Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
For straight-on splitters these are excellent. The yellow is my go-to cam for tight fingers. They are especially good in sandstone and Josh manzonite. However, they don't fare so well in your typical polished Yosemite pin scars. A TCU still can't be beat.
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