How to Choose Rock Shoes

he shoes you wear when rock climbing do more than simply protect your feet. They also help you grab onto, hold and interact with the rock. Different rock shoes are designed to perform best in different situations. It's important that you find a pair that matches your foot shape and your particular style of climbing.

Step #1: Consider your climbing plans

To find the right rock shoes, begin by asking yourself:

• What kind of climber are you? Beginner, intermediate or advanced?
• Where do you climb most often? What kind of rock, what kinds of routes?
• What do you want to do in your shoes? Long, all-day climbs or shorter routes? Do you need shoes for competitions or recreational climbing?
• What kinds of techniques do you use most often? Edging, smears, pocket climbing, crack climbing or a combination of these?

Most rock shoes are versatile enough to handle a wide variety of techniques. But some are better suited to certain techniques than others. If you're a beginner, or you enjoy climbing different kinds of rock, stick with an all-purpose shoe that can handle a variety of different climbing situations. If you're a more experienced climber, consider choosing a more specialized rock shoe to enhance your performance in specific climbing conditions.

Rock Shoe 101

A rock shoe's performance depends on the materials it's made out of and the way it's put together. Keep the following factors in mind as you start to compare different shoes:

• Shoe height/cut—Ankle-high rock shoes provide extra support for your ankles and foot muscles. They also help protect your ankles from scrapes and scratches. Low-cut shoes provide less ankle support, but allow for more freedom of movement for high-angle smearing and other advanced climbing techniques.
• Basic design—Slippers and shoes with hook-and-loop closures are easy to get on and off, which makes them perfect for bouldering and gym climbing (when you're in and out of your shoes frequently). Lace-up rock shoes provide a more snug and adjustable fit, and can be cinched up tight even after your shoes stretch (most rock shoes stretch slightly over time as a result of normal use).
• Support/midsole stiffness—Stiff, supportive rock shoe soles protect your feet, make things easier on your foot muscles, and make it easier for you to stand on thin edges and holds. Stiff midsoles also limit shoe flex when you jam your feet into cracks and pockets, making things easier on your feet as you climb. Flexible midsoles allow you to "feel" the rock better so you can take advantage of small foot holds. More flexible soles also allow you to get as much rubber as possible on the rock, making steep-angle smearing easier.
• Toe profile—A tapered, low-profile toe box will help you jam your shoe into smaller cracks and pockets. But it will be harder on your toes and less comfortable on longer climbs. Roomier toe boxes are more comfortable, and allow you to smear more effectively.
• Last shape A "last" is the general foot shape around which a rock shoe is built. Manufacturers create and use a number of lasts when building different shoes. But most fall into one of 2 basic categories:
  • Semi-flexed—Semi-flexed lasts (also known as traditional lasts) are based on the traditional, anatomical shape of the human foot. They tend to be far more comfortable than cambered lasts (below), which makes them popular with most climbers, especially beginners and intermediates.
  • Cambered—Cambered lasts are bent slightly downward toward the toes. This downward curve forces your toes to crimp down slightly for better edging and control. Cambered rock shoes are most appropriate for difficult routes and competitions when you need the very best performance and control. They can be pretty rough on your feet, though, which makes them a poor choice for general climbing and/or beginners.
• Construction:
  • Slip-lasted—Slip-lasted rock shoes have thin midsoles and insoles, so they're flexible and sensitive. They help you "feel" the rock underfoot so you know where you're putting your feet. These thin soles also allow you to get onto and grip very small holds.
  • Board-lasted—Board-lasted boots are stiffer and more durable than slip-lasted models, stretching less and lasting longer. Board-lasted shoes can also be resoled more often than slip-lasted shoes. Their stiff midsoles provide added support and protection for excellent performance on small edges and long crack climbs.

Step #2: Focus on a General Category

It's difficult to organize rock shoes into distinct end-use categories, since most can be used in a wide variety of situations. Nevertheless, it's helpful to divide them into 3 broad categories, to limit the number of models you need to consider when buying:

• All-purpose—All-purpose shoes are work-horses; they're designed to handle a wide variety of rock climbing situations and perform respectably in all of them. All-purpose shoes can be used to climb cracks, to edge and to smear. They're popular with beginners (who want the freedom to try out a wide variety of techniques), general climbers (who enjoy climbing on all kinds of rock) and climbers planning multi-pitch climbs (where a variety of obstacles may be encountered). All-purpose shoes are typically cut high to protect your ankles and designed to be comfortable as well as protective.
• High-performance—High-performance rock shoes are built for the high-intensity climbing of competitions and/or difficult sport-climb routes. They provide reliable, high-end performance when proper technique is crucial. High-performance shoes are cut low for added flexibility and lighter weight. They're also designed to fit tight for maximum rock-sensitivity and control.
• Slippers—Slippers are as close as you can get to climbing barefoot. They have extremely thin soles for maximum sensitivity, and they hug your foot like a second skin. They make it easier to grab small, difficult footholds. They also have a trim toe profile, for jamming in thin cracks. Slippers are ideal for training, gym climbing and bouldering. They're lighter than regular rock shoes, and they're much easier to get in and out of.

  Keep in mind, however, that slippers provide very little support, so they don't edge well. They can also be tough on your foot muscles. Slippers wear down more quickly than other shoe styles, and they're more prone to stretching.

A Note for Beginners

If you're just starting out, look for a durable, comfortable rock shoe that fits well. You'll put them through the paces as you learn, so find a pair that can stand up to lots of use and abuse. Finding a good fit is especially important, since learning will be tough on your feet at first. Look for stiff, supportive soles, a substantial rubber rand around the outside and high-grade leather uppers. Buy high-cut shoes to protect and support your ankles.

Make sure the shoes you buy keep your foot flat and toes straight. Also look for a semi-rigid sole, one that bends with about as much resistance as a tennis shoe. The stiffness will help you stand on edges, and will help you develop your footwork.

Step #3: Make Sure They Fit

The most important factor to consider when choosing any rock shoes is finding a pair that fits well. You may have to try on a number of styles before you find the right ones.

When testing different models, wear a thin pair of liner socks (it will make it easier for you to get in and out of them all). Your feet tend to swell in the afternoons, or after you've been on them for a while, so try on climbing shoes late in the day to make sure you don't end up with shoes that are too snug.

• If the rock shoe has laces, loosen them all the way to the toe of the shoe.
• Make sure your socks aren't bunched, then lace the shoes up tight.
• Look for a snug but not painful fit. You want to eliminate foot slippage as much as possible, but there's no need to climb in pain.
• When testing lace-up shoes, make sure the eyelets run parallel to one another after you've laced up tight.
• Keep in mind that most climbing shoes stretch slightly over time. Most stretch in width, not length. If the shoe pinches or has a painful pressure point in the heel or toe, chances are it will remain as long as you have the shoe. Shoes with full internal liners and/or considerable rubber rands will stretch less than shoes without these features.
• If you plan on climbing short, difficult routes, opt for a slightly tighter shoe for optimal control. For long, all-day routes or for general climbing, choose shoes that are tight but comfortable.
• Pay special attention to the toe-box when test-fitting shoes. A good fit is crucial. Make sure your toes are not too cramped.

A Note on Sizing

Rock shoes come in US, European and United Kingdom sizes, which can make finding the right size difficult. REI provides a helpful comparison chart to help you make conversions. But remember—every boot is different, so knowing that one size 9 (or 42) fits you doesn't mean others will as well. The only way to know for sure if a rock shoe fits you well is to try it on.

Socks or no socks?

Opinions vary as to whether or not it's beneficial to wear socks with your rock shoes. Some people feel more comfortable with socks. But climbing without socks often gives climbers a better "feel" for the rock. If chosen correctly, slippers and cambered rock shoes provide a glove-like fit without socks. All-purpose shoes are often more comfortable with thin liner socks, especially if you'll be climbing all day.

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