How to Choose the Right Climbing Rope

REI offers a wide selection of ropes for rock, ice and mountaineering climbs. We also offer static ropes for caving, rescue, fixed-line and other uses. Here's how to choose the right one:

Step #1: Make a Few Basic Decisions

Low Elongation vs. Dynamic Ropes- All ropes used for lead climbing must be dynamic. Dynamic ropes stretch when fallen on, absorbing shock and dissipating the energy generated by the fall. Low-elongation ropes provide minimal stretch. They're typically used for activities like caving, rappelling and hauling where there is no chance of significant impact loading. Low-elongation ropes can be used for top-rope climbing, as long as you make sure that no slack builds up between the climber and the belayer.

Single vs. Double Ropes- Single ropes are designed to be a climber's sole connection to their protection system. They're best suited for straight-up routes with little zig-zagging. Single ropes are lighter than 2 double ropes used together, and they're the most common choice for climbing in the US. Single ropes are identified by the number "1" inside a circle on the label at either end of the rope. They vary in diameter from 9.8 to 11 millimeters.

Double ropes (also called half ropes) are designed to be used in pairs. They're designed to be clipped alternately through protection pieces on complicated routes, reducing rope drag and decreasing the risk of rope failure. Double ropes allow for longer rappels than a single rope, and they can also be used singly in certain situations (like basic glacier climbs where the risk of severe falls is absent). They range from 8.2 to 9 millimeters in diameter, and they're identified by the fraction "1/2" inside a circle on the label at either end of the rope.

NOTE: Double ropes are designed to be used in matching pairs (sizes, lengths and brands). Using a mis-matched pair will cause undue wear on one of the ropes, exposing you to a higher risk of rope failure.

Dry vs. Non-dry Ropes- When a rope absorbs water, it becomes heavier and less able to absorb the forces generated in a fall. In cold conditions, absorbed water can freeze, making a rope stiff and unmanageable (ice crystals can also reduce rope strength). "Dry" ropes are treated with water-repellent coatings to reduce water absorption. They won't saturate as quickly as "non-dry" ropes when exposed to water, so they remain stronger and lighter. Keep in mind that "dry" treatments do not stop water absorption completely, and that treatments wear off over time as a result of normal rope use.

NOTE: REI sells rope treatment products that can be used to rejuvenate worn dry rope coatings.

Step #2: Consider the Basic Variables

Diameter-- In general, the thicker a rope's diameter, the stronger it will be and the longer it will last (all other factors being equal). Smaller diameter ropes are lighter and easier to clip into protection, however, making them more popular for high-end lead climbing and glacier travel. REI carries dynamic single ropes in 10mm, 10.5mm and 11mm diameters. We also carry dynamic double ropes.
Length-- You can travel farther on each pitch (and each rappel) with a longer rope. But shorter ropes will weigh less and take up less space in your gear bag. REI sells ropes that are 50m, 55m and 60m long.
Strength-- Climbing ropes are typically rated for both "static elongation" and "maximum impact force". Static elongation refers to the amount a rope stretches when weighted with a standard weight load (80kg/176lbs). Maximum impact force refers to the amount of force transmitted to a climber during a fall.

A low elongation rating means that a rope will not stretch much (which can be useful in aid climbing), while a higher rating means the rope stretches more (which will cushion the impact of a fall on a climber's body).

A rope with a low maximum impact force absorbs more of the energy generated in a fall over a longer period of time, transmitting less to the climber and the protection system. However, that low impact force will result in more rope stretch, which increases your chances of hitting the ground or a rock ledge during a fall.
Construction-- Climbing ropes have kernmantle constructions; a tough, inner core (kern) covered by an outer sheath (mantle). The core is the main load-bearing element of the rope. The sheath is braided tightly around the outside of the core to protect it against abrasion.

Different ropes have different sheath weaves, which can affect their durability and the "hand" or feel of the rope (for more details on your options, consult an REI salesperson). Some ropes have weave pattern changes at their mid-points to make it easier for climbers to find the middle (which is convenient when rappelling).
Flexibility-- A rope's flexibility affects how easy it is to handle and how easy it is to tie in knots. Some climbers prefer more flexible ropes, because they're easier to tie. But when loaded, those knots can become difficult to untie. Others prefer stiffer ropes because they're easier to thread through different climbing gear pieces and because knots tied in them are easier to get out. Flexibility is largely a matter of personal preference.

Rope Care and Safety

Keep your rope clean- Dirt particles are extremely abrasive to ropes. Keep your rope off the ground at all times, and flake it out on a tarp when climbing. Avoid stepping on your rope, since doing so can drive dirt particles deeper into the rope surface. Be especially careful around your rope when wearing crampons.
Care for your rope correctly-- Wash your rope in cold water with a mild, non-detergent soap. Rinse thoroughly and air dry. Never bleach or machine dry your rope. Store it loosely in a rope bag when you're not using it, away from heat, sunlight and harsh chemicals.
Use your rope correctly- Climbing ropes are designed for climbing only. Don't use one for anything else (like roofing, tree-trimming or towing a car).
Use proper rappelling techniques-- Forget movie-style rappels. High-speed, smokin' rappels damage your rope sheath, and bounding rappels create extremely high loads on your anchors and rope.
Check your gear carefully-- Before and after every climb, check your rope for signs of abrasion and/or sheath damage. While you're at it, check the rest of your climbing gear as well for signs of wear. Retire anything that shows damage.

Rope retirement
The useful life of your climbing rope will depend on how often and how hard you use it. Ropes are not cheap, but neither is your life. Follow these basic retirement guidelines even if your rope shows no visible signs of wear:

Occasional use(every other weekend or so) -- replace after 4 years.
Weekend Climbing-- Replace after 2 years.
Sport Climbing-- The repeated short falls typically encountered when working sport climbing routes can be very hard on a rope. Replace every few months to every half year. Many climbing gyms replace ropes every few weeks.
Hard Falls-- Replace your rope after ANY hard fall. Also replace it if it has flat or soft spots, becomes stiff or shows sheath damage.
In Doubt?-- If you're not sure, replace it!

HINT: Keep a climbing diary or log book to help you track your rope usage time.