Women and Climbing—Inspiration and Information to Get You Going

hen we hear historical accounts of climbing and mountaineering, the names Mallory, Irvine and Hillary get constant attention. You're no doubt also familiar with the names Messner, Chouinard and Whittaker.

Most people know about the men who have pioneered routes up major peaks, but what about the women?

Fanny Bullock Workman was setting climbing records for women at the turn of the last century. Then there's Annie Smith Peck, whose 1895 climb of the Matterhorn shocked the world. Why? Not because this adventurous schoolteacher and suffragette reached the summit, but because she had removed her cumbersome skirt and climbed in her knickerbockers!

Women in Climbing History

Over the years, women have had first ascents and made inspiring advances in climbing and mountaineering. Here are some of their accomplishments:

In 1890, Fay Fuller, a Tacoma, Wash., school teacher, became the first woman to reach the summit of 14,411-foot Mount Rainier. She climbed in a long skirt, and used an alpenstock (a long, wooden hiking staff with an iron point).
At 47, Fanny Bullock Workman set a women's world climbing record in 1906 when she scaled 22,815-foot Pinnacle Peak in Kashmir.
In 1908 at the age of 58, Annie Smith Peck climbed Peru's Mt. Huascaran. Three years later she summited the yet-unclimbed Mt. Coropuna and planted a flag for women's suffrage.
In 1947 Barbara Washburn became the first woman to reach the summit of Mount McKinley. She was married to noted mountain photographer Bradford Washburn and had previously gone on many of his Alaska expeditions.
The first female to summit Mount Everest was Japanese mountaineer Junko Tabei. She climbed the world's highest mountain in May 1975 with her all-women's team via the southeast ridge.
The first two American women to summit Mount Everest were Stacy Allison and Peggy Luce. They made the climb in 1989.
In 1978, Arlene Blum led the first all-women's expedition up Annapurna I in the Nepal Himalaya. They were the first Americans to reach the summit. Her book, "Annapurna: A Woman's Place," is an inspirational account of their expedition.
Kitty Calhoun Grissom was the first U.S. woman to scale Dhaulagiri, a 26,795-foot Himalayan peak. She remains one of the premier mountaineers in the United States.
Lynn Hill's sport-climbing fame is far-reaching. In addition to countless firsts in sport competitions throughout the '80s, she also made the first free ascent of the Nose, a classic route on Yosemite's El Capitan, in 1992.
From 1992 through 1995 Robyn Erbesfield, an American won the World Cup climbing championship
In 1995 the first Expedition Inspiration team climbed South America's Mount Aconcagua (23,000 feet) to focus attention and raise money for breast cancer. The climbers included 17 breast cancer survivors aged 22 to 62 years.
In 1999, 18-year-old Katie Brown became the first woman to flash a 5.14a sport route—that is, she climbed it on her first try after being given information about the route.

Read Up and Get Motivated!

Often, personal accounts of the accomplishments of others can inspire us to make new goals. They can also show us that even lofty goals are possible. Want to read more about women climbers and adventurers? Check out thislist of books by women, about women on REI.com.

Gear Up With Women's Equipment

Perhaps this list inspires you to seek your own climbs and adventures. Luckily you'll have more support and resources and better equipment than many of these women had. Gear has improved considerably since the days of Annie Peck's Matterhorn journey in bloomers. Clothing is sensible but comfortable with room to move, and gear has been designed to fit women's bodies and needs.

Clothing

The invention of synthetic fibers has made climbing clothing quick-drying, comfortable and nonrestrictive. Lycra® spandex, polyester and nylon fabrics have taken the place of cotton canvas and wool. Women's sport tops, shorts and tights by Metolius, PrAna and Stonewear Designs offer freedom of movement not possible in a long skirt!

Harnesses

Women have been using men's harnesses for years. For many women, they work just fine. But not all bodies are created equal. Women-specific harnesses address two considerations:

Women often have smaller waists and larger thighs than men. Many women need harnesses made with these proportions in mind.
Women frequently have longer rises (the distance between crotch and waist) than men. On harnesses designed for women, the leg loops are typically farther from the waistbelt to account for this difference.

Some harnesses that take these factors into account are the Arc'Teryx Isis, Petzl Bonnie, Misty Mountain Finesse and the REI Women's Evolution. Some unisex harnesses are fully adjustable and work well for women. The Misty Mountain 3D harnesses feature adjustable waist and leg sizes plus adjustable rise lengths.

Rock Shoes

Like harnesses, unisex shoes fit many women's feet. Some women, though, may need shoes that conform more to the female foot, however. The 5.10 Diamond offers a narrower heel, a higher arch and a low-volume instep for women who can't get a good fit in shoes made on a men's last.

Ice Tools

The Black Diamond Carbon Fiber Black Prophet or the Charlet Moser Quasar are ideal ice tools for women. The Carbon Fiber Black Prophets are some of the lightest available. Their bent shafts are easier to swing and place when arms are tired or in ice conditions that are less than perfect.

Personal Care

Being female presents some physical challenges in the outdoors. Let's face it, when it comes to "going" outside, women are not equipped to do so without exposing themselves to the world. Some would rather forego drinking in the outdoors in order not to stop and water the grass.

But it's really not worth getting dehydrated over! On glacier climbs, it takes some nerve to stop and squat right where you are, tied to your rope team. Considering the often-dangerous alternative of untying, though, initial embarrassment is a small thing. Most rope teams are great about looking the other way and allowing each other a moment of privacy, anyway.

One little-advertised product that can come in handy is the Freshette feminine urinary director. This funnel-shaped cup with a tube lets you go standing up, covered up. It may not appeal to all women, but it can be useful for climbing or other outdoor or travel situations. It beats having to bare all or walk a long way to escape the crowds to go to the bathroom.

At high camps on expeditions, some women use the F.U.D. in their tents and go directly into an extra water bottle reserved for that purpose. The device can be useful during storms as it lets climbers avoid having to put on all their gear to go outside and letting rain and snow into the tent.

Food

Equipment isn't the only thing made just for women. Even energy food has been given the female touch. Clif Luna™ bars, created by women, are made with 22 vitamins that meet the specific nutritional needs of active females. They contain calcium for healthy bones, protein to rebuild muscle, antioxidants for overall wellness, plus folic acid and soy for a healthy heart.

Start Climbing!

All-women's climbing expeditions, schools and clubs are available. These climbs or classes can be more motivating or feel more supportive to some women than coed groups. They can also be a refreshing break away from home and family responsibilities and a time to focus on personal goals and enjoy female camaraderie. Take a look at our list of climbing programs, expeditions, clubs and classes just for women.