Choosing Sewn Runners
 unners are open loops of webbing used for both sport and traditional climbing. They are used to make belay and top-rope anchors, and as links between the rope to bolts or pieces of protection. Runners help keep nuts or camming devices from being dislodged by excessive movement of the rope. On all lead climbs, they are used to keep the rope running as straight as possible to avoid the annoying and sometimes dangerous rope drag on the lead climber.
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Comparing Tied and Sewn Runners
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Runners can be tied from lengths of webbing or purchased pre-sewn. You may wonder which ones to use. Each type has its pros and cons:
Tied Runners
Advantages:
- May be untied and retied, making them suitable for anchoring around large trees or rocks, or adjusting the length as necessary
- Inexpensive to make
- Can be left behind as rappel anchors without a great loss
Disadvantages:
- Heavier
- Bulkier
- Not as strong as sewn runners
Sewn Runners
Advantages:
- Lighter
- Less bulk
- Stronger
Disadvantages:
- Often too short for use as anchors
- Expensive (especially for leaving behind as your rappel anchor)
- Can't be untied to go around natural features such as rocks or trees; should never be cut and retied
Many climbers use a mixture of sewn and tied runners for the greatest versatility. This clinic will focus on sewn runners. For information on tied runners, see our clinic on how to choose and use
Webbing and Accessory Cord.
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Types of Sewn Runners
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Sewn runners come in a variety of shapes and lengths and have multiple uses. Some short sewn runners are referred to as "quickdraws." This is probably because the climber looks as if he or she is drawing a pistol from its holster when pulling one of these runners (with a carabiner attached on either end) off of the harness.
Open Runners
Open runners are lengths of webbing sewn into loops. They are used most often on traditional climbs for making anchors and for clipping in the rope. They come in some longer lengths to keep the rope in a straight line if protection must be placed off to one side.
Examples:REI open runners and BlueWater Titan Spectra® runners are two types of open runners available at REI. BlueWater runners come in 4-, 6-, 12-, 24-, 36- and 48-inch lengths. REI open runners come in 25, 60 and 120cm lengths (roughly equivalent to 10, 24 and 47 inches, respectively).
REI runners are made of nylon. BlueWater Titan runners are made from a combination of Allied Signal Spectra® and Caprolan® nylon fibers that offer higher strength than nylon alone.
However, Spectra-blend webbing has a somewhat slippery finish and does not hold knots as well as 100% nylon webbing. Spectra runners should
NEVERbe cut and made into tied runners! The Spectra fibers may cause the knot to slip under very low loads.
Symmetrical Quickdraws
Symmetrical quickdraws are runners that have been bar-tacked through the center, creating an equal-size loop on each end for clipping carabiners. The resulting shape is like a bow tie or a bone; hence the name for BlueWater's Dog Bones. The loops on these quickdraws are loose enough to allow you to flip carabiners into the right position when necessary.
Examples:BlueWater Titan Dog Bones and REI symmetrical runners are examples of these quickdraws. They are typically used on sport climbs but can also be useful for traditional climbing.
Asymmetrical Quickdraws
These quickdraws for sport climbing are bar-tacked close to one end, forming one very small and one large, open loop. The small loop holds a bent-gate carabiner tightly, which steadies it for clipping in the rope quickly. The larger loop allows the top carabiner to be flipped over in a bolt hanger, if needed.
Examples:BlueWater Titan Speed Draws, REI asymmetrical slings and Petzl quickdraws are examples of asymmetrical quickdraws. The BlueWater runners come in a 5-inch length only. REI models come in roughly 4-, 6- and 8-inch length, (although they are sold in centimeters), and the Petzl quickdraws are available in 11, 17, and 25cm lengths. Petzl quickdraws are different in that they feature tapered ends to allow the carabiners to be flipped over easily. They also have a rubber piece called a "string" that protects the runner from wear and holds the carabiner more tightly for rope clipping.
Shock-Absorbing Runners
Shock-absorbing runners are designed to reduce the load placed on a climbing system. They are made of long runners that have been folded several times and stitched in place. When the rope is shock-loaded from a fall, the stitching in these folds rips out, absorbing some of the impact. The most common use of shock-absorbing runners is on marginal protection placements, either on questionable rock or with very small pieces of protection such as small nuts or old 1/4" bolts.
Example:Yates Screamers are an example of energy-absorbing runners. Screamers provide added protection in climbing and rescue situations. They not only absorb energy directly because of the stitch-ripping effect; they also allow the rope to absorb more energy from the fall by increasing the interval of the fall or shock-loading of the rescue system. The standard Screamer can effectively reduce peak loads by 3-4 kilonewtons in any climbing system.
Asymmetrical Runners With Carabiners Attached(aka Quickdraw Sets)
Some climbers like the convenience of ready-made quickdraw sets, or quickdraws with carabiners attached, rather than buying quickdraws and 'biners separately. Because of their short lengths, these sets are ideal for sport climbing when ascending fairly straight routes.
Examples:REI carries quickdraw sets by Black Diamond, Hugh Banner and Metolius as well as the REI brand.
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