Choosing Mountaineering Axes and Ice Tools
 ountaineeering axes are used for off-trail travel, glacier and snow climbing, and — in combination with other tools — for ice climbing. Ice tools are used in pairs on vertical to overhanging ice. Whether for general mountaineering or ice climbing, axes and ice tools have the same basic parts: the head, the shaft and the spike. The head contains the pick (or long, serrated point) and the adze (or flat, chopping portion). Some ice tools have a hammer instead of an adze on the head and some have interchangeable (or modular) picks, adzes and hammers. The spike is used for plunging the shaft of an axe or tool into the snow for use as an anchor.
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Mountaineering Axes
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The mountaineering axe (ice axe) is the alpine climber's standard tool. Its main purpose is to provide traction as you climb to prevent falling. In the event of a fall, it's used for self-arrest. An ice axe is typically used by itself on moderate-to-steep glacier or snow climbs. It is frequently paired with an ice tool on very steep to vertical alpine ice. On more technical alpine routes, an ice axe and an ice hammer can be a good combination.
What Length Should I Get?
 Mountaineering axes range from 65cm to 90cm long. To get the right size, hold the axe by the head with your arm hanging down by your side. The spike should reach to just above the floor.
If you typically use an ice axe for scrambling (hiking off-trail) or climbing on moderate to steep terrain, you can go with a slightly longer axe. Very long ice axes are nice to use as walking staffs on flat ground, but they are difficult to control during self-arrest. Many climbers use trekking poles for balance on easier terrain and switch to an axe on steeper slopes.
For climbing consistently steep terrain, get a slightly shorter axe, which is easier to pull up and replant as you go up. Longer axes force you to raise your arm higher each time you plant them, which can tire you out quickly.
Shafts
Some mountaineering axes are made with rubber-coated shafts, which dampen vibration that tires out your arms. The coating also keeps hands warmer when gripping the shaft of the axe and swinging it overhead. Coated shafts have one drawback, though — they are somewhat difficult to plunge vertically into the snow for self-belay or for use as an anchor.
Tip Shape (Pick Clearance)
Ice axes are used for self-arrest (digging the pick into the slope with your body weight over it to stop yourself if you fall). The shape of the pick determines, to a degree, how well it will go into the snow surface.
Picks have positive, negative or neutral tip clearance.
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Positive-tip picksangle away from the shaft. This design engages ice easily and is often preferred by experienced climbers for use on ice, steep snow or mixed terrain. This pick shape is not for self-arrest or beginners.
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Neutral-tip picksare parallel to the shaft. They offer a best-of-both-worlds approach that is good on mixed terrain.
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Negative-tip picksangle toward the shaft. This design is more forgiving during self-arrest (good for less experienced users).
Note: Self-arrest is nearly impossible on ice, regardless of tip type.
Head Designs
Ice axes typically have a hole in the center of the head for attaching carabiners and webbing for using the axe as a snow anchor. The hole is also used for hitching a wrist leash to the axe.
Wrist Leashes
Wrist leashes keep you from losing your axe. Buy one ready-made or make your own out of webbing or accessory cord. Length is based on personal preference.
Some people like them long, so they can keep them attached to the same wrist and still switch the axe to the uphill hand each time they switchback uphill. Others prefer to have a shorter leash and to switch the leash when they switch hands. And still others prefer not to use a leash, thinking that if they do fall and drop their axe, the tether would just keep the sharp points flying around close to their body. (Of course, losing your axe while you're high up on a mountain is not ideal, either!)
Experiment with leash length or whether you want to use one, and find what works for you.
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Ice Tools
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Axes for climbing ice are shorter than those for snow travel. While mountaineering axes are typically between 65cm and 90 cm long, (depending on your height and the steepness of the terrain you usually climb), ice tools are between 45cm and 55cm long. Their shorter length is easier to swing overhead when you're climbing steep ice.
It is standard practice to use 2 ice tools on technical alpine or waterfall ice. Usually one is a hammer and the other an adze. With one, you pound in protection and with the other, clear the ice before placing ice screws.
Shaft Designs
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Straight— Straight-shaft tools are easy to plunge into snow for use as anchors. They are not as easy, however, to swing and place effectively on steep ice without some practice.
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Bent— Bent-shaft tools are generally easier to place and can protect your knuckles from getting banged up on the ice. Some bend
near the bottomof the shaft to protect the backs of the hands. Some bend
near the headof the axe for easier placement. This "clearance bend" allows you to hook your tool more easily over ice bulges on waterfall routes.
Others have more of an
overall curveto them, which allows both an efficient swing and hand protection. And there is yet another design with a
large rubber gripat the base, which can make overhead placements and hanging from the axe easier. This design is fairly difficult to use as a snow anchor, though, as the rubber grip gets in the way and doesn't slide in easily.
Pick Shapes
Ice tools are typically made with interchangeable picks so you can choose those that match both the ice and your climbing style. A big advantage of modular picks is that you can carry a spare. If one breaks for some reason, you can replace it right then and there. Some ice tools feature modular hammers and adzes, also. Below is a list of the types of picks available.
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Classic— The classic pick has a downward droop for self-arrest. This style is used mostly for mountaineering and mixed alpine climbing.
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Recurved— Recurved picks, also called banana picks, have an upward curve. This shape allows easier placement on vertical or overhanging ice because it follows the natural curve of your arm swing.
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Straight or Alaska— This pick is made for hard, cold ice conditions. It is designed as a technical alpine pick with a sharper slope than the classic pick.
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Tubular— Tubular picks are designed to work in less-than-ideal ice conditions. They can be planted in honeycombed or brittle ice without shattering it, and the U-shaped structure cleans itself as you climb.
Weights
Weights are often added to the heads of ice tools, especially when climbing waterfall ice. The weights reduce the tools' impact vibration, which can shatter the ice and cause you to swing repeatedly. With weights, you climb more efficiently because tools are placed securely on the first try. Weights also let you shorten your swing and use less force, so even with a little added weight, you end up saving energy.
Wrist Leashes
Wrist leashes are a necessity for ice climbing. You frequently set an ice tool and hang from the leash while placing an ice screw or resting, so it needs to be secure, comfortable and easy to get in and out of.
- Twist leashes are simple in design. The webbing opens and closes around your wrist with a simple twist of the hand.
- Lock-down leashes have sliding wrist loops that lock onto your wrist when weighted and release when a pull loop is hooked over the head of the ice tool. A plastic buckle lets you set how tightly the loop will close.
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