How (and Why) to Choose a Climbing Helmet

ou see them everywhere, on cyclists, inline skaters, skateboarders and skiers. More and more people are strapping on helmets.

Why Wear a Helmet?

The reasons may be "painfully" obvious:

Rocks are harder than your head. In some climbing areas, they tend to lurk above you, just waiting for a scalp to land on!
On ice climbs, sharp tools and flying ice chunks frequently come close to your head.
A fall with a pendulum into the wall or an unexpected bash into a low roof can potentially ruin your day if your head is unprotected.
You never know when your climbing partner is going to lose that carabiner or piece of pro while you're standing directly below.

A helmet can protect you from all of these head-banging mishaps.

Helmet Designs

REI offers two basic styles of climbing helmets:

plastic shells with internal webbing suspension
plastic shells with polystyrene foam liners

Both are designed to absorb impact. Internal strapping systems stretch, while polystyrene liners deform and become compacted.

Webbing suspension has been standard for many years. In addition to dissipating impact force, it offers the advantages of being adjustable to variable head sizes and allowing good ventilation between the plastic shell and the wearer's head.

Polystyrene foam construction is newer in climbing helmets but has been standard in cycling helmets for some time. These helmets are usually available in different shell sizes, and the fit is fine-tuned by adding pads to the inside. They are very lightweight and comfortable.

How Do You Choose a Helmet?

You know that wearing a helmet is using your head. Now to find one you can live with! The most important things to think about are where you climb most often and what your comfort requirements are. Consider the following:

Fit—If you've ever worn a bike helmet you know that fit is essential. Any helmet, (including one for climbing), needs to cover your head and stay in place. Too tight or too large and it will become a nuisance, one you may end up leaving at home or in the car.
Adjustability—Most climbing helmets are offered in one size that can be adjusted to fit. If you'll be sharing the helmet with anyone or wearing a hat on colder days, you want the helmet to adjust quickly and easily. The Petzl Ecrin Roc, for example, features an adjustment wheel that can be moved while the helmet is on your head.
Feel—If possible, try on helmets at your local REI. Make sure you put the helmet on straight down on top of the crown of your head. The front brim should be straight across the forehead. Tilting the helmet backwards, although jaunty-looking, leaves your forehead unprotected from rock fall.
Ventilation—Think about where you will be using the helmet. If you climb in typically hot areas, will it be cool enough? Look for a helmet with a generous number of air vents.
Layering—For colder climates or alpine climbs, think about warmth. Will a hat fit comfortably underneath? A balaclava, typically thinner than a hat, makes a good layering piece underneath a helmet.
Alpine climbing—If you spend your time on all-day alpine climbs with pre-dawn starts, look for a helmet with clips or straps for attaching your headlamp. The Edelrid Ultralight and Black Diamond Half Dome are 2 helmets with this feature.
Sport climbing—If you typically spend your time at the sport crags, you may want to try a lightweight helmet, such as the polystyrene-lined Petzl Meteor.

Accept No Substitutes!

REI does not recommend the use of other helmets, such as paddling or bike helmets, for rock climbing, since they are not rated for the same types of impacts. Climbing helmets sold at REI all meet standards set by the CEN (European Committee for Standardization) and UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme). The helmets are tested for shock and energy absorption, conical impact, security of retention straps and for ventilation. The CEN assures that these products go through quality-control testing as well.

Retirement

Helmets have a limited life span. They should be retired

if they have been dented, cracked or damaged in any way, including the straps
after a serious impact, even if they don't show outward signs of damage
after five years, mainly because UV radiation from sunlight weakens the materials