Choosing Crampons for Snow and Ice Climbing

Construction

Crampons are typically available in 3 styles: hinged, semi-rigid or rigid.

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• Hingedcrampons are best for climbing on snowfields and glaciers. The hinge allows the foot to flex for walking. One of the best things about hinged crampons is that they fit on either plastic boots or leather mountaineering boots with a full shank. With a stiff-enough boot, hinged crampons will even work on vertical ice. If you buy only 1 pair of crampons but want to do a variety of climbing, this is your best bet.
  
  
• Semi-rigidcrampons give more support on occasional vertical ice, such as the sections found on alpine climbs. These versatile crampons can be used for a wide variety of snow and ice climbs. Some have a plate under the forefoot and side rails that run the entire length. Others are hinged with an adjustment that locks the hinge in place. For example, the Grivel 2F crampons flex at the balls of the feet for mobility and comfort, which is helpful for glacier climbing. Add accessory bolts and they're rigid enough for vertical ice climbing.
  
  
• Rigidcrampons are the most technical. They are used primarily on vertical ice. Their stiff structure not only provides support for front-pointing, but also vibrates much less than a hinged construction. For thin or brittle ice this can be a significant advantage. Rigid crampons make glacier walking somewhat awkward, however, because they don't allow your feet to flex for natural striding. They also need to be used with stiff (preferably plastic) boots, as wearing them with flexible boots will eventually cause them to bend and weaken.

Frame Orientation

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• Horizontally oriented (or flat) frames are generally used for snow climbing since they flex easily for walking. This construction helps prevent snow from balling up underfoot. The front points are also typically horizontal for good traction for walking on snow to front-pointing. Hinged crampons are made with a horizontal orientation.
  
  
  
  
• Vertically oriented frames are stiff. Because of this, they are used for front pointing on steep ice. Their frame or "rail" bites into the hardest ice efficiently, without vibration, and the rigid platform reduces foot fatigue. Vertically-oriented front points slice in between icicles and penetrate efficiently. The drawback of this construction is the tendency for snow to collect inside the "cookie cutter" shape of the crampon frame.

Attachment

• Strap-On— This system usually has 2 rubber or neoprene straps per crampon. One holds the forefoot and one wraps around the ankle. Straps are the most versatile attachments since they don't require special welts or boot construction. The main drawback is the time it takes to put them on. They are often used on hinged 10- or 12-point crampons.
  
  
• Step-In— This is a very popular attachment system due to its simplicity and speed. A wire toe bail fits over the boot welt and a heel cable with a tension lever snaps into place on the heel welt. An ankle strap is also typically part of the system. It's a secure system for plastic boots and leather boots with plastic soles that have at least 1/4" deep notches on toes and heels. Without the proper boots, though, you risk losing a crampon in mid-climb. Correctly fitted, these are fast and easy to use. Step-in attachments are found on hinged, semi-rigid and rigid crampons.
  
  
• Mixed— Mixed bindings are simple and efficient. The heels attach with plastic clips and levers similar to step-in bindings. The toes, however, attach with neoprene or rubber straps. Because they don't require significant notches at the toes, these bindings can be used with lighter-weight mountaineering boots without heavy welts. Mixed bindings are found on hinged semi-rigid and rigid crampons.

Points

• Number— Most crampons have 12 points, with 10 under the foot and 2 forward-facing front points. There are a couple of exceptions, though. Ten-point crampons are good for moderate snow travel. The points are shorter and less sharp than standard crampons. They're good for backpacking trips or day treks that involve crossing hard snow. Some rigid crampons known as Footfangs feature 20 points and are very specialized for use on technical ice climbs.
  
  
• Front Points— Front points are the forward-facing points on crampons.
  
  
  • Dual front pointsare standard on most crampons and provide "toe-in" traction on steep snow and alpine ice. Some aggressive crampons have secondary front points that point at about a 45-degree angle to the front. They add support and traction for steep climbs. Unless you are climbing vertical ice (over about 50 degrees) more than half the time, horizontally-oriented front points are more effective. Vertically- oriented dual or mono front points are used for very steep, technical climbs.
    
    
  • Monopointsare used on water ice. Their vertical orientation allows them to fit into cracks in rock or ice or the holes left by ice screws or tools where dual points will not fit. You can place them more precisely on delicate or brittle water ice that might be shattered by dual points. Some crampons feature adjustable monopoints. The points can be lengthened or shortened to match the ice conditions or the climber's style. Worn points can also be replaced.

Fitting Crampons to Your Boots

• It's a good idea to take your boots with you to the store when selecting crampons to make sure they fit properly.
  
  
• For strap-on crampons, when you pick up the boot the crampon should stay on without using straps.
  
  
• For step-in crampons, make sure the toe bail fits the shape of the boot toe and the heel cables are wide enough for the heel to seat securely. Most step-in crampons have heel-cable-width adjustments.
  
  
• On any crampon, the front points should protrude from the boots about 1/2 to 1".
  
  
• Many models of crampons adjust in width and length, and some need additional connecting bars for large boots.
  

Crampon Accessories

• Anti-Balling Plates— These plates prevent the dreaded snowballing effect that can render crampon points useless. They are usually made of latex or some type of rubber and are attached with clips to the undersides of crampons. Surprisingly, anti-stick plates are a fairly new invention that most manufacturers have begun to offer only in recent years. Before this, mountaineers typically used duct tape to prevent snow build up on their crampons (which is still an option, by the way!).
  
  
• Spare Parts— Spare crampon screws and connecting bars are good to have along in your pack, especially if you're out for an extended period such as on a traverse. Connecting bars are also used for lengthening some crampon models to fit larger boot sizes.
  
  
• Crampon Cases and Point Covers— Protect your pack and yourself from sharp crampon points. Rubber point covers are an inexpensive way to do this, although fitting 24 individual rubber caps on the points can be tiresome if you have to remove and put on your crampons repeatedly. Another option is crampon cases. These are typically made of rugged, puncture-resistant nylon. They make for quick and easy storage but are a bit more expensive and bulkier than rubber point covers.