How to Choose Active Rock Climbing Protection
 he assorted anchors that safeguard a climber are divided into roughly two types: those with moving parts and those without. This clinic addresses the "movable" type known as active protection. For information on choosing passive protection,
click here.
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- Active climbing protection features spring-loaded parts that are retracted and then expanded to fit the crack.
- Spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) can be used in wide or straight-sided cracks where passive chocks and tapers often don't hold.
- Spring-loaded tube chocks are typically reserved for cracks or pockets measuring more than six inches wide.
- Because of their large expansion ranges, spring-loaded cams and tube chocks have more placement options than passive protection.
- A full rack of protection that includes both active and passive protection provides the most versatility.
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Climbing anchors without moving parts are collectively known as passive protection or "pro." They consist of aluminum pieces in various shapes attached to braided wires, cords or webbing slings.
In contrast, active protection features moving parts. The two main types of active pro are the ubiquitous spring-loaded camming devices (also called SLCDs) and the less common spring-loaded tube chocks.
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Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
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SLCDs feature three or four curved pieces of aluminum, called cams. When a spring- loaded trigger wire is pulled, these chunks of metal retract and make the device narrower. This allows a climber to slide the unit inside a crack. When the trigger is released, the cams expand to fit the rock. Placed correctly, SLCDs offer excellent hold, particularly in places where passive chocks and tapers will not.
Construction
Most camming devices feature four cams. Because of their narrower profile, SLCDs with three cams are appropriate for shallower cracks. No matter the number, each cam on an SLCD is individually spring-loaded. This allows the devices to conform to irregular shapes within a crack, with each cam maintaining contact with the rock.
Active camming devices have large expansion ranges. A climber can get a single cam to fit where several different sizes of tapers or hexes might be tried before the correct size is found.
Black Diamond is the only brand of camming device (as of this writing) with double axles or pivot points for the cams. Though they add weight, the twin axles give these cams an even larger expansion range than single-axle varieties.
Rigid Stems
Some SLCDs, such as Wild Country Forged Friends, feature solid aluminum center stems. Although more durable than flexible-wire stems, rigid stems can be problematic in some placements. Take horizontal cracks, for instance. Fall forces could break a rigid-stemmed camming device unless it is placed at an adequate depth or tied off properly. It takes practice to place rigid stems correctly in these situations.
Flexible, Single-Cable Stems
Flexible stems are often the better choice for horizontal placements, but they are not as durable as rigid stems. Single cable stems are narrow enough to fit in narrow cracks or oddly-shaped pockets where other wider stems won't work.
Flexible U-stems
Like single flexible, single-cable stem varieties, U-stems are good for horizontal placements. The trigger on flexible U-shape stems can be operated with the forefinger and thumb, and some climbers find them easier to retract evenly. Some find it difficult to get their thumbs in the curved portion of the smaller size cams.
With any camming device, it's best to get them in your hands and decide for yourself which trigger action is the most comfortable. Comfort and ease of use can make a difference when you're trying to place them quickly with one hand.
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Spring-Loaded Tube Chocks
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These less common devices consist of spring-loaded, telescoping aluminum tubes. Squeezed together, they contract for placement inside a crack or pocket. When released they expand and hold. Expandable tube chocks are typically used in cracks or pockets more than 6 inches wide. They are commonly used in the uniform cracks found in the Southwest.
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Building Your Rack
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All styles of cams have their advantages and disadvantages:
- Those with extra-large size ranges tend to be heavier.
- Those with rigid stems are very durable but are not as good for horizontal placements.
- Those with flexible stems are easy to place in horizontal cracks but will wear out quickly if repeatedly fallen on in this type of placement.
Serious climbers who frequent different geological areas often buy different sets of pro to match. But this is impractical (and expensive) if you're just starting to climb and build your rack. One popular concept is to select a full set (typically seven to ten pieces) of one brand of SLCDs, allowing you to become familiar with each size. Color-coded, sewn slings help reinforce what size to reach for when faced with a certain size crack.
The most versatile racks have both passive and active protection to handle a variety of routes and types of rock unless placed properly. Cams can jiggle or "walk" into backward flaring cracks so deeply that they cannot be retrieved. They can also walk out of tapering cracks that widen as they go up. It's good to have passive pro on your rack for upward flaring cracks since it is less likely to be worked free by the rope's movement.
Many new climbers start out with a full set of passive tapers and hexes and add SLCDs gradually. This not only forces them to learn to place passive pro carefully, but it allows those on a budget to climb and still pay their rent.
Practice and experimentation will help you decide on the best type of protection for the formations in your favorite climbing areas. |
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