How to Choose a Mountain Bike

Mountain bikes are the most versatile bikes available. They can be used to haul grocery items home, cruise along the bike path or tour around the planet. But their primary use is for capably getting their riders along dirt trails—mountains are optional.

The key points for all mountain bike shoppers:

• Know your riding style (we can help you with this—see below). Your riding style helps you quickly narrow the bike selection to relevant models. Not sure? Go for a general “trail bike.”
• Know your budget. Basic models start around $500 but can easily exceed $2,000 for lighter, faster models with full suspension and higher-end components.
• If possible, test ride several bikes in the category you want. It’s highly likely that one will stand out as being a better ride for you.

Note: This article covers only the basics of mountain bikes. For a more detailed discussion, talk with the bike pros at your local REI or another specialty bike retailer.

Know Your Riding Style

To be a savvy bike shopper, you first need to gauge your riding intentions and experience.

Mental check in: What is inspiring you to get a mountain bike? Are you already an experienced road cyclist who wants to start mountain biking for a little variety? Will you be doing family outings on easier trails and bike paths and maybe towing a bike trailer with a kid? Or are you out to build your fitness level and skills to ride the local trails with your friends in friendly competition?

Buying tip: For errands, family outings or occasional use, a basic model will serve you well. If you desire to go farther, faster, higher or harder, then higher-quality components will be well worth the extra spend.

Physical check in: Are you fit, flexible, athletic and looking to learn new skills and push the envelope? Or are you less active and simply looking to explore a variety of trails? Or are you some combination of the above?

Buying tip: If you are active and in good condition, you’ll enjoy either a hardtail or a full-suspension bike. If you suffer any joint or back ailments or simply want a smoother ride, a full-suspension bike will probably be more to your liking.

Types of trails: How wide or narrow, flat or steep, smooth or bumpy are the trails you plan to ride? The type of trail can have an influence on the most appropriate bike for you. Ask experienced riders what sort of mountain bike is suitable for the trails in your area.

Buying tip:For relatively smooth trails, a hardtail will serve you well. Riding on both pavement and dirt? A hardtail also offers the most versatility. For trails that are rough, rocky, rooty or have small drops, consider a full-suspension bike or hardtail 29er.

The bike: Will this be the only bike you use for all of your riding (errands/commuting/fun)? Or do you want a bike that will be used specifically for dirt trail riding? Your mind, your body and local trail conditions can influence your bike selection. Conversely, your choice of bike can also influence which trails you ride, how your body gets treated and what experiences you have.

Types of Mountain Bikes

Mountain bikes are described and advertised by a variety of terms. Knowing the language can help you compare bikes and make a more informed choice. Here are some common categories:

Trail: These general-purpose mountain bikes handle everything from dirt roads to singletrack trails. Most mountain bike riders are “trail riders” and most mountain bikes at REI are trail bikes. Trail bikes can be either hardtail or full suspension. Primary emphasis is versatility.

All mountain: These are essentially trail bikes with stronger frames and longer suspension travel. They’re best for riding more difficult (technical) trails with steeper descents, increased obstacles and small jumps. Most are full-suspension bikes. Primary emphasis is difficult terrain.

You may also hear of specialty mountain bikes that are not typically offered by REI:

Cross country: These are light, nimble bikes best for competitive events that feature steep ascents and tight turns. They are not suited for the high impact of jumps and landings. Emphasis is on speed, ascending and cornering.

Freeride and downhill: This specialized category is built for going fast downhill and soaking up the rocks, roots, bumps and jumps along the way. Often shuttled to the top of mountains by vehicle or a ski-resort chairlift, they are not as fun or as efficient to ride uphill. Primary emphasis is high-speed descending.

Dirt jump: These bikes are for those who like to spend time with their wheels off the ground by performing aerial stunts. You’ll find these ridden mostly by the young (or young at heart) at a designated bike park. Primary emphasis is aerial stunts.

Hardtail or Full Suspension?

Back in the 1970s and early ‘80s, all mountain bikes were fully rigid: They had no suspension to soften the ride and improve control. Today’s mountain bikes are usually categorized by their suspension arrangement—hardtail or full suspension.

Hardtail

These bikes have suspension attached to the front wheel only; it’s in the form of a suspension fork (or a single arm called a “lefty” on some Cannondale models). Front suspension reduces your hand and arm fatigue. It also improves steering and bike control as you negotiate rough trail surfaces.

Basic suspension forks function by using a wound steel coil spring. Air-sprung forks are lighter and more adjustable, and they are found mostly on higher-end bikes.

Buying tip: A hardtail is very popular as an affordable first mountain bike; a bike for all purposes; a bike for occasional trail use; or a bike for advancing your riding skills on difficult trails.

Shop REI’s selection of hardtail mountain bikes.

Full Suspension

On these bikes, both front and rear wheels are suspended. The front is suspended the same way as on a hardtail bike. The rear wheel is suspended by the use of a pivoting frame—the rear wheel is attached to this frame and a “rear shock” (shock absorber). Full suspension comes at a higher cost and sometimes added weight, but it increases comfort and reduces fatigue for the rider. It also offers more bike control when at higher speeds on difficult terrain.

Buying tip: A full-suspension bike is a good choice if you ride enough to warrant the higher cost; want a bike dedicated for dirt trail riding; want to ride faster with more control in difficult terrain; or simply want a bike that is easier on your joints and muscles.

For more information, see the REI Expert Advice Understanding Suspension article.

Shop REI’s selection of full-suspension mountain bikes.

Wheel Size

26 inch

In the not too-distant past, all mountain bikes were equipped with 26” wheels. (This is what was available in a knobby trail tread tire when the first “mountain bikes” were being designed). It is still the most popular wheel size, but now when you walk into a bike shop and inquire about mountain bikes, you are likely to be asked, “26 inch or 29 inch?”

29 inch (“29ers”)

Bigger wheels have gained popularity in recent years. The larger 29-inch diameter is heavier (more rim, more rubber) and a little slower to accelerate, but it offers the advantages of better momentum once rolling (more progress for less effort); a larger contact area on the trail (more grip, less slide); and a higher “attack angle”—meaning the wheel rolls over trail obstacles easier, needing less rider input to unweight or lift the front wheel up to get over rocks and roots. This translates to more stability and control.

The increased tire size equates to a feeling of having more suspension, so 29-inch wheels are most commonly found on hardtail bikes, but as frame designs and components evolve, full-suspension 29ers are becoming available. The more you spend on a 29er, the lighter it will be. And that is when the design benefits really come to the fore, as you get all the advantages without having to pedal additional weight around.

Buying tip: 29ers can fit most riders but should be given serious consideration by a taller rider who is looking at buying a hardtail, especially if it is for use on both dirt and pavement.

Note: 26-inch and 29-inch wheel sizes are not interchangeable on a frame, as frames and suspension are designed to accommodate a specific wheel size.

For more information, see the REI Expert Advice The Basics of 29ers article.

24 inch

Kids’ mountain bikes typically have 24-inch wheels to accommodate the shorter legs of children. Most are less-expensive versions of adult bikes with simpler components. Generally speaking, these suit kids ages 10 to 13, but this depends more on the size of the child than the age. Even younger/smaller children can get started biking with 20-inch wheels.

Shop REI’s selection of kids’ mountain bikes.

Frame Materials

This influences the weight, strength, longevity, ride quality and price of a bike.

Aluminium alloy is the most common frame material used to make mountain bikes, and most models at REI use this frame material. Some more-expensive mountain bikes have lighter aluminium frames as a result of the manufacturer expending more dollars and effort in the selection of materials, tubing design and the manufacturing process.

Other frame materials include steel, titanium and carbon fiber. Steel is tough, inexpensive and offers a smooth ride, but is relatively heavy for a mountain bike. Titanium is light and strong but too expensive for all but high-end mountain bikes. Carbon fiber is becoming increasingly common on cross-country bikes and high-end “trail” and “all-mountain” bikes due to its strength and light weight, but it is relatively expensive because of its labor-intensive manufacturing.

For more information, see the REI Expert Advice Understanding Bike Frame Materials article.

Components

Bike manufacturers not only offer many different models, they also may create a series of bikes based on a single model. Bikes in a series use the same frame design, but they feature different components and sometimes frame materials.

Components are all the parts of a bike that are attached to the frame, including:

• Drivetrain (crank arms, front chainrings, rear cassette, chain, derailleurs, gear shifters)
• Suspension
• Wheels (rims, hubs, axles, spokes)
• Brakes

Manufacturers mix and match components based on each model’s riding purpose, component availability, price and the intended user, so you often see components from a variety of brands attached to a bike.

The low end of a model series will feature an aluminium frame with economical components. This is intended for the buyer on a tight budget who wants a bike for occasional use primarily around the neighborhood, on bike paths or on some dirt roads.

As you go up in price, component quality (more durability, enhanced function, less weight) goes up. The top-end bike in a model series may feature a carbon-fiber frame (strong, light) with the best available package of components.

Component Packages (2011 Models)

Shimano and SRAM are the most popular component suppliers, especially of drivetrains. The table below offers a rough comparison of their component packages from entry level to pro level.

Brakes

Disc brakes have replaced rim brakes on all but entry-level mountain bikes.

Disc brakes: These feature brake pads that grip onto a brake rotor mounted to the wheel hub. Disc brakes come in 2 versions: cable activated (mechanical) and hydraulic. Hydraulic disc brakes offer more progressive and stronger braking with less finger effort, and they self-adjust for brake pad wear. Cable-activated brakes need manual adjusting as the pads wear.

• Advantages: More consistent braking in all conditions; much cheaper to replace a worn rotor than a whole wheel. Best for steep or wet terrain; less finger strain.
• Disadvantages: More difficult to inspect pad wear and replace pads. Hydraulic brakes are more expensive to service.

Rim brakes: Common on entry-level mountain bikes, rim brakes feature pads that grip onto the wheel rims.

• Advantages: Economical; easy to observe brake pad wear and replace worn pads.
• Disadvantages: Gradually wears out the wheel rim, requiring the wheel to be replaced; less stopping power than disc brakes; less effective in wet or muddy conditions; requires more finger effort on the levers to brake aggressively.

Buying tip: Definitely consider a bike with hydraulic disc brakes if you are going to be riding often and on steep trails.

Gearing

The number of gears on a bike is a multiplication of the number of front chainrings by the number of sprockets on the rear hub. Typical mountain bike gearing:

Less important than the number of gears is the range of gearing, from lowest to highest. This influences the steepness of the grade (both uphill and downhill) that you can pedal efficiently without running out of gears. An 18-speed bike may cover the same range of gears as a 27-speed bike, but with fewer increments between highest and lowest. However, it is generally true that the more gears you have, the wider the range of gearing from low to high.

The extreme in gearing is a single-speed bike, which attracts some mountain bikers because of its mechanical simplicity and lighter weight. Be prepared to develop strong leg muscles if you choose a single-speed bike.

Buying tip: Gearing arrangement is rarely a major factor in deciding on a bike unless you are experienced with the various options and have a strong preference towards a particular configuration.

Budget

Know what your money can buy or how much money it takes to buy what you need. Here’s a rough guide:

• $500 to $900: A basic but functional hardtail (26-inch or 29-inch wheels) suitable for occasional use on easy to moderate terrain.
• $900 to $1,500: A hardtail with a lightweight frame and high-end components suitable for regular use on a wide variety of terrain.
• $1,500 to $2,500: An entry-level full-suspension bike or an entry-level competition hardtail.
• $2,500 and up: A race-ready hardtail or a good to excellent quality full-suspension bike.

Buying tip: It actually costs less money in the long run to buy a higher quality bike now than it would to buy a less-expensive bike now and upgrade the components later.

At the Bike Store

Armed with the above knowledge, now is a good time to head to REI or other specialty bike retailer to determine your frame size, identify some suitable models and try out a few bikes.

Choose a Frame Size

Ask the sales specialist what size you should be riding. Once determined, it is going to be reasonably consistent between brands and models.

A sales specialist who is experienced in sizing can often tell by looking at your body proportions. He or she also may have access to the bike fit kit, which is used to measure you and determine the right frame size.

In the absence of either of the above, there are a few things you can check:

• The reach from seat to handlebar: When sitting on the bike, you feel neither too stretched out (the bike is too long) or too scrunched up (the bike is too short) for comfort.
• Seat height: When sitting on the bike with one foot at the bottom of a pedal stroke, you should have a slight bend in your knee. Disclaimers: The seat post must not be extended beyond the safe minimum insertion level AND the handlebars must not be more than 2” below the seat height. For many riders, the handlebars should be about level with the seat height.

A frame’s geometry can also have a major influence on fit. A steeply sloping top tube is going to suit a rider with shorter legs and longer torso and arms (i.e., many men), but not a rider with long legs and a shorter torso and arms (i.e., many women) who need a higher seat position.

A woman’s specific frame is recommended for shorter women, as the reach from seat to handlebars will be shorter and more comfortable than on a men’s bike. This helps to greatly reduce back, shoulder and neck strain and discomfort.

Buying tip: Standover clearance is no longer an accurate way to select a frame size. It used to be that you should have 1” or more of clearance when straddling the top tube with your feet flat on the ground. Changes in frame design and geometry have reduced the relevance of this rule, but you do still need a comfortable amount of standover clearance.

Go for a Test Ride

Ask if you can test ride several bikes. With the help of a sales specialist, you should be able to narrow down your selection to 2 or 3 bikes. Even though they may have similar prices and components, they will feel different to ride. Take each for a 5- to 10-minute ride over some varied surfaces, including up a short hill.

Deciding

In most cases, one bike is just going to feel better for you than the others. You want a bike to feel like a natural extension of your body, not some odd appendage you are constantly fighting.

Buying tip: Ideally, the bike you choose should be suitable for your needs now as well as when your riding time and experience level increase.

Final Steps

Any REI bike shop will give your bike a final mechanical safety inspection before you wheel it out the door. Also, ask for the suspension settings to be adjusted for your body weight. Make sure you have at least the bare essentials for repairs and maintenance: spare tube, patch kit, tire levers, pump, multitool, chain lube and something to carry it all in.

Additional Resources

Maintenance: Be sure to take care of your new ride. See the REI Expert Advice Maintenance Basics article for a brief primer and ask about upcoming bike maintenance classes at your REI store. There is no AAA for stranded mountain bikers, so maintain your machine and learn how to do basic trailside repairs like fixing a flat tire. Of course, your REI bike shop is always happy to help with tune-ups, repairs and upgrades, too.

Ride suggestions: Where should you ride? Ask your REI sales specialist for a recommendation on a guidebook, trail map or website resource for your local area, or check REI Guidepost.

What to bring: See the REI Expert Advice Mountain Biking Checklist for gear and clothing you should consider taking along.

Skills: Take a look at the REI Expert Advice Mountain Biking Techniques videos for the basics, or read a book on mountain bike skills or attend a bike skills clinic such as those offered by the REI Outdoor School.

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